trace the wiring from the plug to the motor, if that is like other yaesu rotors
it has some filters and diodes bypassed with the limit switches. bypass all
that crud and see if the motor runs when you power it directly before you blame
Oct 9, 2012 09:11:43 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
UPDATE!!!! I have the rotor on the bench and open. Looks FB for sure.
Apply 12.5V directly to pins 4-5 on the rotor connector. Hear a click and
nothing moves. Reverse the polarity and touch the pins again. Same click
and no motion. Then I turn the juice to 23.5V. Yes! It runs full speed, for
about 5 seconds. Then speed slows and slows and slows till it is at a dead
stop. Reverse the polarity and it runs very slowly the other way for a
maybe 10s then stops.
This is the SAME behavior I had up on the tower. So, it appears that there
are two options:
1. The gear train is binding although I don't see anything to indicate
2. The motor is FUBAR.
FWIW, the motor Ohm reading was 9.5 before I applied any DC power and after
a bunch of testing it is now 7.5 Ohms. If I let the unit sit for 5 minutes
and power it up again, it'll repeat the run at full speed and slow down
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:13 PM, Mark Adams wrote:
> Hi Gang,
> In July I asked for help with my rotor issues and my initial notes are
> below. Today I finally lowered the tower, removed the mast and stack to see
> if anything was binding. The cabling was fine and the thrust bearing was in
> good shape. Then we tried to run the rotor with no load and it behaved just
> like before. I opened the rotor and the inside appears to be like new.
> Now I need to make a cable to test the rotor on the bench. Does anyone
> know if the Yaesu connectors are commonly available? Boat or auto stores
> maybe? I'm sure Yaesu will be glad to sell me a pair :-)
> Email to list from July:
> Hi Gang,
> I've had this rotor up for a few years but this spring problems cropped up.
> At first I could not get rotation if the speed was anything less than HIGH.
> Then the rotor would only turn a little and simply stop. If I used a preset
> and hit START, it would move some, stop and the rotor box would be hot if I
> did not reset it quickly. Things I checked:
> 1. I thought that my homemade Kellums gave out and the rotor loops were
> tight but they still had enough slack to allow rotation.
> 2. I checked the connector at the rotor and it is clean and dry.
> 3. The rotor has not moved on the rotor plate. It's in its install
> 4. My mast is 1.94" OD 6061-T6 Al so it is not tight in the thrust
> bearing so I don't thing that is a problem, but I did not have a 2nd
> to operate the rotor while I was on the ladder. (It's on a TX-455 so I
> checked it cranked down.
> 5. Measured in the shack, the motor shows 10 Ohms.
> 6. Measured the voltage on pins 4-5 of the control box and I get 11V on
> LOW and 23.5V on HIGH.
> 7. I took the cover off and put my meter leads across the motor leads at
> J1009. Rotor was set to N. I then started full speed rotation CW and the
> voltage was a stead -21.9 right up unitl it stalled at 150 degees. I then
> tried CCW, V was 21.8 and got no rotation. Binoculars show that no cables
> are hung.
> 8. The inside of the box does have a bit of burned odor, but ever so
> Any ideas???
> FWIW, I'm turning an F-12 C4E, 2M7 and 64DX. All that was a tad much for
> the used HD-73, but this one should be fine IMO.
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