On 11/3/2012 4:08 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
The first thing you do with a HDR-300 is remove the stops. If it rotates
past the stops, things break. By pass or remove the stops.
The HDR-300 does not have a wedge break like the Ham or Tailtwister.
The shaft keyways in the HDR-300 are poorly designed resulting in worn
keyways with lot of play. Unless you braze the shaft to the large gear or
redesign the shaft keyways, it will end with a lot of play which will get
worse and worse as the keyway wears.
One does not need to raise the mast to remove a HDR-300, and generally with
a Ham/Tailtwister. Just leave say half inch gap between the mast end and
the rotor end.
Unfortunately working alone doesn't always come out quite as planned.
I'm just finishing up a winch to go on the tractor to give me more control.
73
Roger (K8RI)
BTW HDR-300 with ac motor do not work as well as other dc motors when used
with a Green Heron controller.
An Alfa Spid is a good rotor.
Doug
I'll run the race and I will never be the same again
-----Original Message-----
When I moved here I put up the big array. It tore apart the rotator in
a matter of days. I picked up to HDR 300's. The HDR rotators were
plenty strong enough, but the motors offered too little resistance to
turning. One day which was kinda windy I tried to turn the system, but
as soon as I released the brake the array spun around before I could
stop it with the motor. It took the rotator right past the stops.
A few days later it did the same thing with a second HDR. That was when
I ordered the double worm gear rotator and swore I'd never use a rotator
with a wedge brake on anything larger than a small tribander.
As these rotators were 20 feet down from the top of a 100 foot 45G they
were a royal PITA to repair which required raising the mast a few inches
with all that load and locking it in place to keep it from turning with
the rotator out.
Now here's a rotator and antenna system.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/skyhook.htm
73
Roger (K8RI)
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