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Re: [TowerTalk] Connecting Tower to Ground Rod

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Connecting Tower to Ground Rod
From: Jim Lux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2013 20:20:28 -0700
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 10/9/13 8:11 PM, GARY HUBER wrote:
National Electrical Code 250.94 will apply to the Rohn Tower and
grounding. A minimum of #6 copper is required for bonding the tower and
ground to the electrical service ground.  With the galvanized tower you
don't want a direct copper and galvanizing connection as when wet there
will be electrolytic corrosion. Stainless Steel, and Aluminum are the
most commonly used metals which can be used to isolate the copper wire
from the galvanizing.

NOTE: this BONDING of GROUNDS is the minimum REQUIRED for electrical
safety. It is NOT adequate for the dissipation of a direct lightning
strike.


Actually, AWG6 is more than capable of carrying lighting stroke current. A 100kA pulse 50 microseconds long (a big stroke) won't melt AWG10.


The idea with using "lots o' rods" is to reduce the voltage rise, although the inductance is probably going to set a limit on that. And, of course, rods just aren't a very good connection to the bulk soil, so you have the "smoking rods" problem because of the high current density at the rod/soil interface.


This is why the concrete encased grounding electrode (Ufer ground) works so well. It has very large surface area at the soil/grounding system interface, so the current density is low. The surface of the concrete is in intimate contact with 20 feet of wire (minimum), so the current density across that interface is low as well.

The usual high quality lighting ground is a ring ground, which is basically a long continuous electrode in contact with the soil over a large surface area. Consider a house that is 30 feet by 50 feet with a ring ground 5 feet away all around. That grounding electrode is 200 feet long. It would take driving a couple dozen standard 8 foot rods to get that kind of contact area.

When it comes to dissipation, there's really no big advantage to driving deep; it's all about conductor/soil contact area, and spreading it over a wide area. So burying a wire 2 feet deep that's 200 feet long around your house is a whole lot better than driving a dozen 8 foot rods with AWG 6 connecting them above the ground.





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