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Re: [TowerTalk] H-beam for elevated guy

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] H-beam for elevated guy
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 14:45:54 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 2/12/2014 10:00 AM, K7LXC@aol.com wrote:
Howdy --
I'm trying to get an idea of a good size for a 6' elevated guy anchor
(with 4 feet in the ground and it'll have a backstay). It's  for 100' of
45G. I was thinking of using an 8" flange length. That might be  enough since
it'll be backguyed but since I'm not an engineer, I was looking for  some
feedback on this. TIA.

37
Hi Steve,

From my web site : "*Each guy anchor is a 16-foot long 5-inch diameter steel pipe which weighs about 300#. Those pipes set down into the crushed rock base on top of which is poured the two yards of concrete. The top of the concrete form is roughly two feet below the surface. Pinned in place on top of the concrete and welded to the 5 inch pipe is a brace made of heavy 4 inch I-beam and 5 inch channel, three feet high and with a three foot base. Here, I managed to get a lot of practice welding. In particular my vertical welding improved drastically."

So mine are about a foot or so, deeper and in roughly 2.4 yards of concrete. With steel, including braces, I figure each guy anchor weighs in the neighborhood of 17,000#

A lot depends on the soil. 2 of those elevated anchors look like they did when I installed them. The one to the NW has tilted ever so slowly and the top is now close to 10" out of vertical after 12 years (give or take).

These are not back guyed and because of the soil I had to build forms.There was no "undisturbed earth" available. Back guys to the S and NW would have been in the neighbor's yards. Pulling those forms was something else. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower17.htm
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower18.htm
Unfortunately I don't find any photos of the actual, finished posts or pulling operation. We just had to yank the walls out which by the time the concrete had cured were pretty flimsy due to ground moisture/water. If I had to do it again, I'd use 2 X 4s to fit the outside, but not fastened to the walls. When finished, I'd pull the walls and leave the 2 X 4s instead of having to pull the whole form in one piece. They really lost their "structural integrity" anyway. Remembering that wood forms are pretty much disposable.

73

Roger (K8RI)
*
Cheers,
Steve     K7LXC
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