You'd have to invert this scheme to bring your stuff in from the top,
butI have apanel under a double-hung window's bottom sash, made from a
piece of scrap aluminum framed in wood. I had a storm window made to
fit the gap between the top of the panel and the top of the window
opening, and for good measure use a piece of cylindrical foam insulation
intended for water pipes to close the gap between the partly open bottom
sash and the upper one. It's pretty toasty, though the indoor humidity
does form ice on the inside of the storm window during the coldest days
of winter.
As for security, I believe you can buy inexpensive locking devices that
are designed to permit having a window open a bit without compromising
security
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network at
http://reversebeacon.net,
blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com.
For spots, please go to your favorite
ARC V6 or VE7CC DX cluster node.
On 4/7/2014 1:02 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 4/7/2014 9:15 AM, Steve wrote:
Hi all,
I have one open wire feeder and a couple of coaxial cables coming
into my basement radio shack. Many years ago I removed the glass from
the top pane of a window and replaced the glass with plexiglass. I
drilled the plexiglass for feed thru insulators for the open wire and
holes for the coaxial cables.
I would like to replace the 5 windows on that side of the house,
which includes the window with the plexiglass antenna cable
entrances. The existing wooden-frame windows with a single pane of
glass will be replaced with double-paned, energy efficient
double-hung windows.
Were it me, and it's not, I'd use a dense foam, water proofed wood
panel, or two sheets of plexiglass with feed throughs. The window
frames (holding the glass) are likely to be vinyl with no metal and
should not affect the feed line. So the spacer under it doesn't have
to be tall. We have that type, but sliding type and there is no metal
in them, but YMMV.
Any insert will defeat the locking mechanism of the window, which is
minimal at best. The old double hung with the spring loaded pins on
each side were the best I've seen. It takes very little to defeat the
little rotating thing on most of today's windows
With the energy efficient windows, I'd not use a metal spacer as just
a few inches will defeat the purpose of the energy efficiency. A
couple strips of 1/4" plexiglass a with a half inch separation (or
however wide you want), capped with the same material, top and bottom
(assembled with plexiglass glue and use a piece of weather stripping
top and bottom. It doesn't have to be that fancy, but a piece like
that shouldn't sweat, except possibly on really cold days.
As for the gap between the lower sash and the upper window, you should
be able to find weatherstripping that will fit. I'm thinking of the
kind that looks like a tube. For that matter, you could probably find
a plastic tube that fits snugly but not tight enough to stress the
glass. With the price of the windows, I'd go the little extra for a
proper weather seal.
I assume you are going to hire the job done. If so, I'd ask the
installer about a piece of weather stripping for the gap,
Lot's of ideas, but most (metal) defeat the purpose of the high
efficiency and all that I can think of defeat the security.
73
Roger (K8RI)
How do I get my antenna wires into the house after the newer windows
are installed? The newer windows do not lend themselves to the
plexiglass scheme in use with the existing window. I would prefer not
to drill holes in the basement wall -- I want to sell this house
eventually (that's one reason for replacing the windows in the first
place).
One thought I had is to lower the upper half of the new window about
a foot and insert a piece of plexiglass at the top of the window.
Buttress the upper half of the new window up against the plexiglass.
Seal as necessary with polyurethane foam insulation. One problem with
that idea is that the upper section of the window can be lowered from
the outside -- not very secure.
Any ideas as to how to get my open wire feeder and a few coaxial
cables through the wall after the new windows are installed while not
damaging the walls of the house or the new window?
Thanks.
Steve, K8JQ
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