Having worked in a Auto/Truck manufacturing plant 33 years ( Mack Trucks ) We
had to install torque limiting air guns for any Screw Hose clamp installation
areas. Most of the time they were over tightened leading to stripped
band screw engagement. and when going to the silicone hose tearing of the
hose membrane by the band also.
In the many antennas I have assembled including F-12 pop rivet and
Mosley SS screw .... I do like and use SS hose clamps..... I only use a 1/4
drive socket set and @ 6'2 225
DO not put all my weight into the tightening process
One thing I have learned over the years... The Noalox is to be a light
FILM not caked or painted on... you'll never get a clamp or hose clamp tight
enough to prevent spinning of the two elements by hand
YMMV
Wayne W3EA
> Hose clamps come in different widths, materials and styles. I am not sure
> what MFJ/ Cushcraft uses or what failed for K6UJ, but on my homebrew
> antennas I use worm drive hose clamps with a 9/16" wide band and a 300
> series stainless steel screw. For 1 1/4 or larger tubing I use a bolt style
> hose clamp.
>
> John KK9A
>
> ,
>
> I no longer use hose clamps after having them strip as you had happen or the
>
> connection
> loosening after flexing back and forth in the wind (I am also in the Pacific
> NW)
> Now I only use rivets. I have had a number of Force 12 antennas and no
> problem
> at all with the connections. Their riveted conns sold me. The HF beams I
> have
> fabbed have riveted elements
> and no problems. I wipe on Penetrox when assembling and later when taking
> apart
> the tubing is like new. Plus to change element lengths it is super easy to
> drill
> out the center of the rivets, they pop right out. Now I can sleep easy
> while
> the winds blow, hihi.
>
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
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