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Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: Grinding hole in thick steel plate

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: Grinding hole in thick steel plate?
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2015 13:00:43 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
They cut the deadbolt holes in our steel doors too small. I was able to cut a plug that just fit. The center hole worked for the larger hole as well although I'd use aluminum for the plug in solid steel. Cut one a bit over size and trim on a lathe if possible. I think the hole saw in 3/4" steel will be slow going. Lots of lube!

73

Roger (K8RI)

On 9/9/2015 12:19 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
Charlie,

The proposed "move the hole 0.25"" application of a hole saw would have it cutting only on one circular segment of the work, so the center stub on the hole saw is undergoing a +/- something stress reversal of bending every rotation. In my segment sawing try the hub fatigued and broke, which was a very logical result in retrospect. I was using a high quality US brand bi-metal saw about 3" in diameter. For a smaller diameter saw the peak to peak stress cycle would be less so the saw hub might not fail from fatigue. For a full circle cut, there should be no bending of the hub when using a drill press.

Another way to manage the chip buildup in a 360 degree hole saw slot is to drill 2 to 4 thru holes just inside the od of the saw kerf so the chips can be pushed out to the backside of the work, so it needs to be clear. For sawing a segment that is not needed as the swarf will mostly clear itself.

Grant KZ1W
<snip>

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