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Re: [VHFcontesting] Total newbie questions about 2m and 70cm antennas an

To: vhfcontesting@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [VHFcontesting] Total newbie questions about 2m and 70cm antennas and receive filter
From: James Duffey <jamesduffey@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 22:05:59 -0600
List-post: <vhfcontesting@contesting.com">mailto:vhfcontesting@contesting.com>
John - You ask some good questions. Here are my suggestions and opinions, not 
to be confused with absolute answers, but I hope they are some use to you. 
Others may have other answers.

> Realistically, I can probably only put up a dipole for 6m in the time I have.

A dipole is a good starter. It will be better than a loop, but not as good as a 
beam. The few dB difference between the loop and the dipole and the dipole and 
a beam are significant when the band begins to open, when it is closing and for 
those weak band openings that occur all too often. You might think of putting 
together a small Moxon, or use the PAR Stressed Moxon, which are not much more 
difficult to put up than a dipole and will be a big improvement. If not for 
June, then plan ahead for future contests.

> I have a 13 element 2m beam I can put up a few feet below my 5-band 
> 20/17/15/12/10m quad.
> How far away from the quad does it need to be to work OK?

A half wavelength is probably good enough for temporary use. You will get some 
pattern degradation, but the gain should be pretty close to what it would be if 
isolated. That is between 3 and 4 feet. I stack closer than that on the rover 
and it is not deleterious. The higher frequency antenna will see the biggest 
effect, the lower antenna pretty much not at all. 

> How far from the 2m antenna does the 70cm antenna need to be if it's on the 
> same mast?

Again, a half wavelength or greater on 70cm. That is 14 inches. Put it half way 
between he 2 meter Yagi and the quad and you should be OK.

> Could I put either antenna (or both?) right in the center of the HF quad so 
> that it is firing through the quad's driven element? 

I think the 70cm Yagi would be OK there, but I wouldn't put the 2M antenna 
there.
 
> Do I also need some sort of omnidirectional antenna for either 2m and/or 70cm?

The 10dB or more you would give up to an omni antenna would not be too 
productive for those DX QSOes. When I am roving, the guys with single loops are 
good out to 50 miles or so and then tend to crap out; after that the guys with 
beams rule. I think that with a beam, you can hear the guys off the side of the 
beam as well as with a loop, and you can hear others working stations that you 
can't hear, so you know where to turn your beam to hear them. It isn't so bad. 
You might want to try a dipole, but I suspect that after awhile you won't use 
it much.   

> Seems to me that with such sharp directionality and high F/B ratio, my rotor 
> is going to be VERY busy. Where can I get tips on what are the best 
> directions to point when looking for contacts in the contest?

Well you work everyone in one direction and then go on. You move stations up in 
bands, so you only need to turn the beam once per station, not once per station 
per band. It is all simpler than it seems. Point the beam in the direction of 
the greatest VHF/UHF ham population. To start with, these are the large 
population centers near you. Near being within 200 to 300 miles. Look at last 
years line scores and see what stations in your neck of the woods were active. 
Point the beams in those directions. Concentrate on the high power stations and 
the guys with high scores and lots of bands in the listings first. Those guys 
will work hard to put you in the log on as many bands as you have. In pursuing 
them, you will hear lots of other stations. Work them as you hear them. Call CQ 
often.

With your 2M setup, you should be able to work reliably out to two grids or so 
from your location. Patience is the key. Draw a cirlw on the map, and point the 
beam towards last years winners.   

> In fact, is there some online reference for new VHF contesters that I can 
> read to get some general pointers?

Shameless self promotion. It isn't online, but the beginner's VHF column in the 
Fall 2012 CQ VHF magazine has a good guide for first timers in VHF/UHF 
contesting. They will sell you a back issue.

> Radio questions:
> 
> Do I need to add a CW filter and an SSB filter to the radio? If so, what 
> bandwidths are appropriate?

Radio answers:

I find a narrow CW filter useful to cut down noise on weak CW signals. The 
bandwidth is a matter of personal preference, I like a bit wider CW bandwidth, 
so I would say 500 Hz is fine. The stock SSB bandwidth should be OK. 

>   On HF, I might use 500 Hz or 300 Hz, and 2.3 or 2.0 KHz.  I don't know if 
> the same applies on VHF.

Until you have some experience on VHF, use the filters you like on HF. The 
biggest advantage to the narrow filters on VHF/UHF is noise reduction, not QRM 
reduction. Operate with the stock filters or filters you are used to until you 
have some experience on VHF and UHF.

> Bonus question:
> 
> I think the rig does 100w on 6m, 50w on 2m, and 20w on 70cm if I recall 
> correctly.  Is that going to be enough power to have fun, or am I going to 
> get frustrated? 

Bonus Answer:

Yes, that is enough power to have fun. On 6M you will have lots of fun when the 
band is open. If you add a beam, you will have more fun when the band is 
opening and closing.

The key to successful VHF/UHF contesting is to be loud on two. Fifty Watts is a 
bit shy of being loud, but the beam will make up for a lot of the difference. 
Brick amplifiers in the 150 Watt to 200 Watt range are available used for about 
$1/Watt and are worth the jump in power over the 50 Watts in my opinion. That 5 
to 6 dB difference over 50 Watts makes a much bigger difference on VHF/UHF than 
you would think from your HF experience. CW is also a useful tool if you are 
shy of power; on VHF/UHF cross mode contacts are quite acceptable, quite 
different than on HF, so if you call a station on SSB and they don't come back, 
call them on CW. It usually works. 

On the other hand, on 70cm 20W is a bit shy and again, a 100 Watt brick 
amplifier would help a lot. If you can't swing that, go to CW if you have hard 
times raising someone. Used VHF and UHF brick amplifiers are reasonably priced 
and fairly common. Try to borrow one if you can't afford to buy one.

> I am in a really good QTH btw, and an amplifier is really NOT in the budget 
> at this time.

Well location is important, so you should do well. You also live in an area 
with high ham VHF/UHF population, so you should be able to work lots of people. 

To get an idea of what kind of coverage you can expect, look at the section on 
"Reliable VHF Coverage" in the ARRL Antenna Book. It is in Chapter 23 in my 
2003 edition, but it is in more recent editions and in past editions as well. 
It has nomographs for determining your station capability, along with charts 
for path loss as a function of distance. The path loss as a function of 
distance charts are very interesting. After a steep initial rise in path loss 
due to line of site and diffraction, the curves flatten out, and 5 to 10 dB 
increase in station capability can easily result in a 100 to 150 mile increase 
in communication range. So, unlike HF, where we tend to poo-poo a 6 dB increase 
as only an S-unit, on VHF/UHF it can mean significant range increase. And more 
grids to work.

I hope this helps. Look for KK6MC/r in the contest. Hope for double skip. - 
Duffey KK6MC/r
--
KK6MC
James Duffey
Cedar Crest NM







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