Paul,
That actually hit me early this morning after I had typed that and I started
looking into it. What a person needs is first a thrust washer. A bronze washer
might not do here, but a minature one using ball bearings would. Then you have
to have something between it and the nut you can hold from spinning as the
thrust washer would be between it and the chuck. I thought of using a piece of
steel rod that was drilled through the center just a shade bigger than the
screw. The tube would need to be about 3 inches long so a person could hold it
with their fingers from spinning. Then, the threaded rod would stick out of it
maybe 1/2" to accomodate different length rivet-nuts. What you would do is
place the nut on the thread, put it in the hole, hold on to the tube, apply
inwards pressure with the drill to press against the nut, then zip it in with
the drill/screwgun.
The only problem with the above is one will need to do some lathe work to make
the tube. Another thing comes up here also. What about the different thread
diameters? Would you make one tube each to fit each threaded rod? A person
could get more extravagant with the machining and make a rod to go in the
drill, and on out the front of the tube which had a holder for one diameter in
the end and a setscrew would hold it in from turning. Then each threaded rod
would have to be machined out of a piece of solid round so that each size
thread had the same shank to mount in the end for the setscrew to hold in. That
takes a good bit of machining, and some folks can't do that. However, yo use
the first design, not only would you have to change the tube, you would have to
change the thrust washer each time because the threaded rod size changes.
I'm going to set down today and look into this more and see what's needed. I'll
let you know what I come up with. By the way, I looked at the one website, and
never did find their drill driver listed.
Best,
Will
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 4/7/06 at 10:05 AM Paul Whatton wrote:
>Hi Will
>
>There is an animation here of a rivet nut being pulled up by a thread
>just as you describe:
>http://www.zygology.com/products/tier2.asp?category=threaded%20inserts
>
>I also saw a product mentioned on the internet that adapts a reversible
>electric drill to do this in the way you describe.
>http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/nhe/nhe124.html
>
>Being cheap I tried to pull up my aluminium M4 rivet nuts with a thread
>in the chuck of my drill and a washer between the tips of the chuck and
>the rivet nut. It didn't work because the rivetnut spun in the hole. It
>seems that as well as the screw you will need a fixed grip that
>surrounds it to stop the rivet nut turning.
>
>I'm sure with a little ingenuity it would be possible to make a tool
>that works but In the end I gave up and started squashing them in the vice!
>
>73 Paul G4DCV
>
>Will Matney wrote:
>> All,
>>
>> I forgot to mention this. I think a man can install these rivet-nuts
>using a screw gun with a threaded stud in the chuck. You need a screw gun
>where it has a clutch on the front to set for the torque. Anyhow, you'd
>thread the rivet nut on the threaded stud up to the chuck jaws. Set the
>clutch where it would slip once the nut is swaged fully in place, then
>simply reverse the drill to back it out. That's exactly how those
>expensive air guns work, no difference that I seen. If you have a lathe,
>you could machine a threaded stud with a flat rim where it meets the chuck
>jaws, or really run a nut up on the stud to where the chuck jaws are to
>act as a flat anvil to back up the end of the rivet-nut. Still, the same
>way the air guns work. This is something I am sure going to try, and that
>would beat using a manual riveter all to pieces!
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Will
>>
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>>
>
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