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Re: [Amps] tank coil heating

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] tank coil heating
From: "Will Matney" <craxd1@verizon.net>
Reply-to: craxd1@verizon.net
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 21:51:04 -0400
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Karl-Arne's right. I didn't look at the schematic and photos until now. The 
only time we ever paralelled two and left them permenantly connected was for a 
mono-band amp. We used to use two air variables, one for the load C and another 
paralelled with it in full mesh to get enough C. Sice the voltage is much lower 
at load C, you can get by with a smaller air variable as long as it meets the 
voltage rating across the load. You could probably get buy with one of Oren 
Elliots APL series caps here. For doing a multi-band amp, you need to switch in 
the caps only when they're needed for a certain band. Also, NPO is what you 
should use here, or air variable / vacuum, and at that maybe paralell two or 
more of the door knob types to get the value needed to increase the RF current 
rating. That is if you can't find a large enough NPO doorknob cap to do it by 
itself. If paralelling, you might get by with several NPO disc types if they 
are the thick high current types. I've seen those used in the QRO amps if I 
recall.

The tank coil conductor size varies with the frequency of course over the skin 
effect. In about all of the ARRL handbooks, there is a table about this showing 
the size used for each frequency and by the power rating. Over coil heating is 
why QRO uses tubing for the entire coil. The end towards 10 meters will get the 
hottest of course.

By the way, that was a good job for a first time builder! As you build more, 
they get easier and easier.

Best,

Will

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 5/11/06 at 6:54 PM Karl-Arne Markström wrote:

>If you don't disconnect the parallel fixed padder across the C2 in the
>Pi-network on 14 MHz,
>you may end up in serious heating trouble, as well as using a very
>unsuitable operating point for the PA tube.
>
>The pi-network calculations for a tube this size calls for
>a C2 in the order of 200 - 250 pF on 14 MHz for a loaded Q of 12.
>
>600 pF results in a loaded Q in the range of  25 - 30, and the coil losses
>will be in the order of
>5 - 10 times higher than normal due to the fact that tank circuit losses
>are
>proportional to the square of the circulating currents. They are in turn
>proportional to loaded Q.
>
>A doubled  loaded Q means 4 times higher coil losses.
>
>73/
>
>Karl-Arne
>SM0AOM
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Partain, Chuck" <Chuck_Partain@maxtor.com>
>To: <amps@contesting.com>
>Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:54 AM
>Subject: [Amps] tank coil heating
>
>
>> I'll go peruse the archives again but I'm going to post this here anyway.
>> I noticed while on 20m tonight running about a kw that the tank coil was
>getting
>> HOT, one of the wires connected to it (the 20m section) was turning a
>nice shade
>> of darker! the coil is warm.
>>
>> also When I pulled the cover (I was looking to see where all the hot
>smell was comming from)
>> I noticed that a doorknob cap I have installed next to the load vacuum
>cap was also warm!
>> i'm using that cap to get me on 80m its in parallel with the 1000pf
>vacuum cap
>>
>> everyone I talk to with it said they notice NO noticible difference when
>its on or off only
>> a few s units higher! (no audible distortion)
>>
>> the cap I am using is labelled n4700   591m 30kv  706h and has a c with
>an m inside of it.
>>
>> are these suitable for what I am doing? hell, its 30kv! why warm? what
>should I be looking for?
>> the amp seems to load up pretty good into the vertical with an swr of
>less than 1.3 to 1
>>
>> thanks for any help
>>
>> chuck, ka1mwp
>>
>> the schematic is at
>>
>> http://home.comcast.net/~ka1mwp
>>
>>
>>
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