The other nice thing about the original 3-500Z is almost-instantaneous
heating; no waiting two - three minutes before you can even tune up. And
then once you work the DX, you can turn the amp off. Of course, the
compromise is the much-higher filament power required while it is on
(105 watts vs. 25 - 35 watts).
And think of all the time, energy, drill bits, hole saws, and blood,
sweat and tears you'll save by just plugging in a new tube and fixing
whatever damage there is, instead of trying to retrofit a forced-air
blower, socket and chimney, working out a new filament supply, probly
new bias supply, etc. etc.. Then you wind up with a frankenstein that,
if you decide to resell it, nobody will want to buy.
'Tis a no-brainer, to me.
Steve, K0XP
On 10/30/2024 7:38 AM, jim.thom jim.thom@telus.net wrote:
The 3CX-800A7 has a max anode V rating of just 2250 vdc.
The AL-80A/B has 3100 vdc no load on it....and 2750 vdc loaded.....so you
can scratch that tube off ur list. (3CX-800A7)
The 3CX800U7 has a max anode V rating of just 1800 vdc. Scratch that tube
off your list.
3CX-400A7 has a max anode V rating of 2200 vdc. Scratch that tube as well.
3CX-400U7 rated for just 1500 vdc. Scratch that tube.
GI46B rated for a max of 2 kvdc. scratch that tube.
I'm telling you, you are wasting your time.
Just rebuild the amp, power supply, and whatever else is wrong with
it.....and stuff a new 3-500Z into it....and be done with it.
CTR engineering also sells a real compact output TR relay board ( that's
correctly sequenced)..that has now been used successfully in a lot of
different amps. Quiet..and fast. Comes in 12/24/120 vdc versions.
https://www.ctrengineeringinc.com/relays/ $59.00
Jim VE7RF
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