Whereas the discussion on silver plating is very interesting, one
wonders if silver plating is really necessary in view of the experiments
done by Larry, W0QE.
http://www.w0qe.com/Technical_Topics/inductor_Q_tests.html
Tom W0IVJ
On 3/1/2014 8:09 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 17:37:48 +0100
From: peter chadwick <g8on@fsmail.net>
To: MU 4CX250B <4cx250b@miamioh.edu>, Fuqua Bill L <wlfuqu00@uky.edu>
Cc: "amps@contesting.com" <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] Cool Amp Silver Plating
## The stuff works superb. I use vinal gloves or latex gloves.....like the
throw away types. You would be amazed at how the stuff works on relay
contacts etc. I have had several brand NEW 30-50 A DPDT relays..like
deltrol, P+B etc, that have int contacts on one or both poles. Also same
issue with DPST and also SPST relays. If these types are relays are used
for RF switching... what usually happens is you lose all RX. After the usual
careful cleaning... I applied cool-amp to the contacts..all of em....and no
more int RX. b4... with a fluke dvm, I would see typ 3-80 ohms. And 0.0
ohms after the cool-amp glop applied. They also make another product, called
conducto lube..which is pure silver powder in grease. Its used on sliding
contacts and also relay contacts. I have not tried it...yet.
## I also use it on all cu tubing tank coils on my hb amps. I also use it on all
cu straps...like used on vac caps...and tank coil taps to bandswitch, etc, etc. I
hate the look of plane jane copper. The finish on this cool amp stuff is
superb...much better than real silver plating. last forever....and doesn’t
turn black.
## Trick is to clean the cu 1st. I use JETS or SOS cleaning pads...... like the
wife uses for cleaning pots and pans. Sorta looks like steel wool embedded with
blue powder cleaning glop. AFTER you cut the cu strap to length and punch holes in
it, etc, then form it to say the tank coil to bandswitch etc.... then remove it...and
apply the cool-amp goop. Forget rubbing it on with a cloth. Use all 10 fingers
and use latex or vinal gloves to apply the goop. When every square inch is
covered... then rinse the piece in warm water..then let sit on some paper toweling....
and use more toweling to gently daub it to remove any excess water. DON’T
SCRUB IT to get water off.
## The usual deal is to silver plate a whole mess of coils and straps
etc.....all in one shot.
## Plane CU looks awful imo. It will discolour and even look worse down the road.
The cool-amp powder has an indefinite shelf life. When u make a paste with
it..... make the paste in a little tiny container. You don’t want it too
thin..u want it thick.
Jim VE7RF
Whether it's worthwhile electrically depends on the frequency. At 144MHz, the
skin depth is 0.2 mil (0.0002 inch) and you need about 5 skin depths to keep
99% of the current in the silver, or about 1 mil i.e. 0.001 inch. At 1.8 MHz,
you need about 0.009 inches for 5 skin depths....
But it looks a lot nicer than oxidized copper.
73
Peter G3RZP
_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
|