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Re: [Amps] Stripping Litz

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Stripping Litz
From: Manfred Mornhinweg <manfred@ludens.cl>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2017 15:58:58 +0000
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Chris,

Even using the hot air tip on a butane soldering iron for
a minute fails to do more than darken the insulation, as does a bare
flame. It's a nightmare to strip,....

Well, MOST Litz wire is of the solder-through variety, but not all of it is. You seem to have gotten some extra high temperature Litz wire that probably needs some special solvent for stripping, that typically needs to be used hot. The manufacturer surely can provide that solvent to industrial customers... but a hobbyist most often can't even find out who the manufacturer is!

It's nice
wire of a reasonable core size for coil winding, but if I can't strip
it its just X kilos of copper.... :(

Yes. I wouldn't bother with Litz wire that can't be soldered the normal way. I suggest you dump it, and get some solderable Litz wire instead.

A note to all those who haven't worked with Litz wire: The strands are so fine that stripping them by any mechanical method will rip off most of them, or at least weaken them so much that they might fail later. For the same reason any chemical strippers that attack copper shouldn't be used either.

And yet another note, to Chris and to anyone else trying to tin the end of Litz wire or any thin solder-through enameled copper wire:

- Set the soldering iron pretty hot, hotter than for PCB work. If you don't have temperature control, you might want to use one of those ultra-cheap non-regulated irons of 40 watts or so. They tend to get much too hot for normal work, but are great for tinning such wires!

- Tin the tip of the iron, forming a small blob of solder.

- Stick the very end of the wire into this blob. Now start slowly adding rosin-cored solder to the blob, so as to maintain a supply of fresh, active flux. If the blob gets too large, let it fall off, and keep slowly adding fresh solder. The fresh, active rosin is essential in this process. With most solder-through insulations a flux-free blob of solder won't do, nor will a solder pot.

- When the wire is starting to take the solder, you can slowly push it through the blob, while adding solder, to tin as much of its length as you need.

With the proper wire, this process is easy, once you learn how to do it right. With non-solderable wire, it won't work. Avoid non-solderable thin enameled wire.

Manfred

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