It doesn´t matter what connector you use, N C HN
7/16 UHF or whatever, if you only tape the joint
with electrical tabe water will get in, or no tape at
all will not work either ofcourse.
You must use the rubber vulc tape stuff, that is
first electrical tape then rubber vulc then electrical
tape on top, tat joint you can sink down in water
and it will be ok.
I´ve hade so many coax connector joints to fail due
to water getting in so its incredible, main reason is
I´m too lazy to use vulc tape, ofcourse I then have
to spend hours and hours replacing black burnt up
connectors, they just fry you know if water gets in
(wounder why, hi).
73, Jim SM2EKM
-----------------------------------
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: W4EF@pacbell.net [SMTP:W4EF@pacbell.net]
Skickat: den 2 mars 2000 20:35
Till: nj4f@erols.com; amps@contesting.com
Ämne: VB: RE: [AMPS] N-Connectors - Thanks for the Replies
Yes, I this can be very annoying. The very property
that makes HVG so good makes it a pain in the butt
when you get it on the wrong thing. Usually I can
wrap the tape beyond the smeared spot, and get good
adhesion.
I also take a rag up the tower with me as greasy
fingers tend to be the main method of unwanted
transfer.
Mike, W4EF............
----------
From: Steve Bookout[SMTP:nj4f@erols.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 10:33 AM
To: measures; Michael Tope; Jon Ogden; 'AMPS'
Subject: RE: [AMPS] N-Connectors - Thanks for the Replies
Hello all,
Also, using silicon grease is great, EXCEPT that if you get ANY on the
outside of the connector and cable ass'y, you will never get the tape
to stick.
I use a double wrap of Scotch 88, a layer of un vulcanized rubber tape,
another double layer of 88 tape and then a final coating of ScotchKote.
Really water proof, but as Rich mentions, it is a real pain in the butt
to
get back in them.
I went thru this very thing in the CQWW on Sat evening when the 40 quit.
Cutting these joints open at night on a tower by flashlight is no treat!
(It was the bead balun! Water in it.)
Another thing to mention is that you can get the generic equivalent of
Coax
Seal, by finding this material sold as gutter patching stuff. I have a
roll about 12 inches wide and 8 inches in diameter which is intended to
fix
rusted out gutter bottoms. This is may hundred dollars worth of
material
at the Coax Seal price.
73 de Steve, NR4M
At 10:15 AM 3/2/00 -0700, measures wrote:
>
>>Hi Rich,
>>
>>I usually weatherproof mine with scotch 33 and high
>>vacuum grease. No trouble as of yet.
>>
>The trouble is when you take them off and put them on. Type-C handles
>big suds and does not let water into the coax. Cs are as fast as a
BNC.
> No taping and untaping needed.
>
>cheers, Mike.
>
>--
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---------------------------------------------
Steve Bookout, NR4M (ex NJ4F)
Rapidan Data Systems
'DX4WIN...The way logging programs should be!'
Free demo at http://www.dx4win.com
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