Gary....even with power switch in OFF position and amp unplugged from wall
outlet, there may still be LETHAL VOLTAGES present in the amp. If you are
poking around, touching, and checking temperatures without being ABSOLUTELY
SURE capacitors are fully discharged, etc you are putting yourself at risk.
At the least, take an insulated screwdriver and short the plate caps
(each) to the chassis of the amp. Please be extrordinarily careful. Or, put
the
20 screws back in and send it for repair which will be much less expensive
than a trip to the hospital (or worse). Please, please be careful!
Thanks,
Richard
In a message dated 6/9/2010 8:03:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
apolloeme@live.com writes:
From: wa6fgi@sbcglobal.net
> To: amps@contesting.com
> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 16:35:07 -0700
> Subject: [Amps] Centurion plate current issue
>
> Hi to the group:
>
> Finally got around to taking off the cover (excess of twenty screws)
removed both tubes from sockets and switched the amp on. No plate current draw.
Good. Was suggested by TenTec to insert tubes one at a time and check plate
current.
>
> Did that, plate current draw with either tube in place is 175 ma or so.
>
> Is there any way to check (with ohmmeter) for internal shorts? Which pin
to what particular pin?
>
> I `spose anything is possible but both tubes going bad at same time?
>
> When checking the tubes, had the HV on for maybe no more than 30 seconds
or so, aluminum heat dissipaters on the tube(s) was extremely hot to the
touch.
>
> Fwiw, tubes are RF products house brand. If I need new ones, any
difference form RF house and Taylor's?
>
> looking of some ideas on this one (some more),
>
> 73, Gary...wa6fgi
> ____________________________________
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