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Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Grounding Electrode System

To: "'Jim'" <jimw7ry@gmail.com>, "'Mickey Baker'" <fishflorida@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Grounding Electrode System
From: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m73@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 11:25:23 -0400
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
> Jim W7RY wrote:

> I have successfully used caldweld one shots in the past. My last go round 
> with them was a disaster, so I switched to the re-usable molds! They work 
> perfect, and are what the professionals use.

I had great success with ceramic Cadweld one-shots on my first tower ground 
system, but when I installed the ground system for my second tower 10 years 
later the manufacturer had switched to Styrofoam molds. That was indeed a 
disaster. In some cases I had to hacksaw the top of the rod and redo the joint. 
I did have a permanent mold for 4 wires that I used at the SPG, and it worked 
great for that purpose, but wasn't really suitable for 2-wire connections. It 
was possible to block the unused holes with pieces of wire, but it took a lot 
of care to make sure they didn't get blown out during the welding process. 
Also, the charges were much larger and more expensive. In retrospect, I should 
have bitten the bullet and bought a 2-wire permanent mold.

73, Dick WC1M

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim <jimw7ry@gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 11:42 PM
To: 'Mickey Baker' <fishflorida@gmail.com>
Cc: Towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Tower Grounding Electrode System

Bottom line…

 

A GOOD grounding system is an investment. If you want to invest in a good 
grounding system then:

 

Use multiple 8 foot copper plated ground rods spaced at about 10 to 16 feet. 
(farther than the length of the rod).

The top of the rod must be below the frost line.

 

The more the rods the better. Use a radial system from the entrance location if 
needed.

 

UFER grounding is also desired with new construction where concrete is to be 
poured, and bond with exothermic to the grounding system you just properly 
installed.

 

Exothermically  weld #2 AWG solid tined copper to the top of each rod.

All underground connections shall be exothermically welded together.

 

Use the approved connection methods (UL and NFPA70) to ground bars, towers, etc.

 

Bond the building electrical grounding system to the new ground system you have 
just properly installed.

 

 

I also bonded #2AWG tined solid to my 100’ steel 8” well casing that was 5 feet 
from my new tower base with a UL listed clamp. I did not have a Cadweld mold to 
use on my well casing. Since the connection is above ground, an approved 
mechanical lug is acceptable.

 

If you want to use SOLID strap above ground, use the proper terminations and 
appropriate conductive grease. NEVER use braided strap (braid) for a grounding 
system.

 

The mold for #2 AWG to ground rod is about $70.00. A #2 AWG run to #2 AWG tap 
cadweld mold is about $90.00. A used mold handle was about $25.00 on Ebay.

Avoid used molds. They are most likely worn out. New ones are not that more 
expensive.

 

I have successfully used caldweld one shots in the past. My last go round with 
them was a disaster, so I switched to the re-usable molds! They work perfect, 
and are what the professionals use.

 

https://www.gmesupply.com/ Has all the tools, cadweld (exothermic) molds and 
safety equipment you could ever use on a tower or grounding project. Their 
prices are the best I have found, and they take small orders from individuals.

 

BTW, the new version (revision C) of the Motorola R56 Standards for 
Communications Sites is free from Motorola Solutions. Just create an account 
and download the 800 page manual for free!

 

 

73

Jim W7RY

Motorola Solutions R56 SME.

 

 

 

 

 

From: Mickey Baker [mailto:fishflorida@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 10:14 PM
To: jimw7ry@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding wire choices

 

I have one, about 3 years old, strap from the grounding system into my SPG on 
the entry wall. Not buried, used the Harger copper bearing grease. It's tight. 
But I see your point.

 

I've seen them with an X cut in the strap, pushed down over the ground rod and 
silver soldered. It was pretty, but I didn't want to spend the time on my knees 
with a torch, and there's #2 cadwelded to the top of this rod running to the 
service entrance bond.

 

Good luck.

 

Mickey Baker, N4MB
Palm Beach Gardens
“Tell me, and I will listen. Show me, and I will understand. Involve me, and I 
will learn.” Teton Lakota, American Indian Saying.

 

 

On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 11:05 PM Jim <jimw7ry@gmail.com 
<mailto:jimw7ry@gmail.com> > wrote:

Did you see my response on the Tower Talk list?

 

I said…

 

 

Not the best way. But fine...

 

They corrode

They loosen up, I was never able to get mine to tighten up without spinning on 
the rod.

They are not NFPA 70 approved (National Electric Code) They are not UL approved.

 

If you have information to the contrary, please supply.

 

Thanks

73

Jim W7RY

Motorola Solutions R56 SME

 

 

 

 

From: Mickey Baker [mailto:fishflorida@gmail.com <mailto:fishflorida@gmail.com> 
] 
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2018 9:56 PM
To: jimw7ry@gmail.com <mailto:jimw7ry@gmail.com> 
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding wire choices

 

 


Jim

        9:56 PM (57 minutes ago)



John... How do you attach that 2" copper strap to ground rods? 73 Jim W7RY 

 

http://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/Ground_Rod_Clamps.html

 

73,

 

Mickey N4MB

 



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