With all due respect. I would favor the stainless. The stress in this area
of the tower is many times less than the rating for the given diameter of
stainless. Not having to deal with rust that may migrate to the tower legs
is a really important factor. Many times you can't see underneath the paint
which would make that method risky.
I believe the revits are aluminum so that should tell you a lot about the
stress concern. Just my two cents. I'm not the God of stainless steel bolts
;-)
enjoy,
dave
wa3gin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clint Talmadge" <unclebudd@bellsouth.net>
To: "Mike Lafferty W2TB" <mikelafferty@verizon.net>;
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Repair HD-BX Tower?
>I think the "bolt and nut" approach will work well, BUT I would not use
>stainless hardware. Stainless, while is nice from the not rusting
>perspective, is more brittle than a Grade 5 or 8 bolt. Lock down a
>stainless nut and bolt and tighten till it fails. You will find it does
>not take nearly the effort it does to do the same to Grade 5 or 8 hardware.
>I would use Grade 5 and hit it with a spray of Cold Galvanizing from a
>spray can and not lose a minute of sleep over it.
>
> Clint - W5CPT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Lafferty W2TB
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 10:40 AM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Repair HD-BX Tower?
>
>
> I have a HD-BX 48" Rohn, and a couple rivets broke on section 5, third
> section from the top. I was going to drill and use stainless steel bolts
> through a hole in the aluminum rivet, but I thought I would ask to see
> if anyone has a better method of repair. Do I need new rivets, or does
> my Stainless Steel work?
> Thanks,
> Mike W2TB
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