K7JA is CHIP not chet
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of John Ammeter
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 7:48 PM
To: Tower and HF antenna construction topics.
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] IN SEARCH OF PVC Tubing to Bury...
I'm KE7JA..... not KE7JGB anymore. Nor am I Chet, K7JA, although if I'm
not careful how I pronounce "KE" it comes out "Kayeee" instead of
"K...E..."
If you use a vacuum a "mouse" can be sucked a long way through conduit.
Simply make a cloth "ball" and tie a light line onto it. Use your shop
vac to suck it through the conduit. BUT, be sure to put a screen at the
end of the conduit or the mouse will end up inside the vacuum.
John KE7JA
Roger (K8RI) wrote:
> WA3GIN wrote:
>
>> Sorry, I forgot to mention the distance was 1500ft. That is a lot PVC
glue
>> ;-)
>>
>>
> And you use glue...why?
> http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/cablebox.htm In the run to the
> house I did use glue, but all the others have no glue. The conduit was
> cut long enough to be under pressure and each connection with "greased"
> with DC-4 (or 5) compound. Even though buried shallow in an area with a
> high water table in the spring, there has been no water egress into the
> conduit.
>
> There is another run of 1" conduit (for the CAT-6 network cable) not
> shown that runs between the garage and shop about 10-15' to the right of
> the junction box on the side of the shop. That conduit also does not use
> any glue. I found the silicone grease allows the conduit to fully mate
> and seal. How well that would work on a 1500 foot run would be difficult
> to tell.
>
> As for the actual PVC glue. You can get it in every thing from a few
> ounces to well over a pint. It takes very little make a connection.
> Just a single swipe of the brush all the way around the male end. Best
> to get too much glue as too little. It like the grease aids in fully
> mating the pieces and with the glue there is no second chance! Once it
> goes together it's done whether fully mated or only a quarter the way.
> Where ever it stops is permanent. <:-)) Due to the characteristics of
> the conduit it's almost impossible to test fit the pieces together and
> then glue them. With out the glue or grease I've never been able to get
> them together.
>
>
>> <snip>.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Hardware store... grey electrical plastic conduit. A 10 foot x 1" stick
>>> will cost about $2.00.
>>>
>>>
> In my case it's two or three sizes larger and sooner or later I'll need
> to add another run. <:-))
>
>>> BTW, always put in at least one size bigger than you think you'll ever
>>> need. And, once the ditch is open... put in a spare conduit, too.
>>>
>>> It's recommended that you drill drain holes at the lowest point of the
>>> run. I've done it both with and without drain holes.
>>>
> I did that with the original run to the house, but since then I've not
> bothered.
>
>>> In fact, I just
>>> pulled out a 10 gauge 4 conductor run from some conduit in preparation
>>> to pulling in 6 gauge wire.... the 10 gauge was bone dry and it's been
>>> down there for at least a year without any drain holes.
>>>
>>> John KE7JA
>>>
>>>
> KE7? You changed calls?
>
>>> WA3GIN wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> ...fiber line from house to ham shack/antenna controller.
>>>>
>>>>
> Which reminds me, don't forget to install a messenger cable as you
> assemble the conduit run. It's really difficult to *PUSH* 1500 feet of
> the stuff through a pipe.
>
> 73 and good Luck,
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>>>> Source suggestions welcome,
>>>> dave
>>>> wa3gin
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