My way of installing PL259 is as follows:
1.Go to industrial tool supply store and obtain D4 reamer. The reamer
diameter is 13/32" (0.406"). I have other reamer that have a diameter 0.404"
which I prefer because it give me a tighter connection).
Ream the inside thread using that reamer. This way the threat tips will not
be that sharp. Blow away the chips.
2. Strip the cable (RG213) outer jacket and then centre insulator to the
proper dimensions. The proper length of exposed shield should be the same as
length of the PL259 body.
3. Screw the PL259 on to the cable braid. (It will require some force. But
be careful not to brake any shield wires).
4. The center conductor should protrude through the center pin.
5. Solder the centre conductor to the centre pin.
6. Trim excess cable shield.
It is good idea to apply some silicone grease in between shield and thread
of the PL259.
It is also a very good idea to use various colors shrink tubing to go a bit
over the body of PL259 and a dab of silicone grease to make it water tight.
73 de Andy - VA3PL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Dutson" <kjdutson@earthlink.net>
To: "'Tower Talk'" <TOWERTALK@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 12:21 PM
Subject: RE: [TowerTalk] Re: Cutting braid - Installing PL259
> Same here Bud. My guess is most hams have been frustrated by this task.
>
> Here is how I solved the problem once and for all:
>
> 1. Obtain a professional temperature controlled soldering iron with
moderate
> to wide blade tip. My choice is Weller digital adjustable temp.
> 2. Strip the cable jacket as usual so that center conductor will reach the
> tip of the PL259 and jacket is removed where shield will be soldered.
> 3. Set iron to 650 degrees.
> 4. Tin braid where it will be soldered. Be sure to tin all the way
around.
> Be careful not to overheat and melt the dielectric. Apply solder and tip
at
> the same time in several spots, then flow all together without adding more
> solder. You may need to add more solder if initial application will not
> flow all the way around.
> 5. Using a small tube cutter (1 inch is easiest to use), cut off the braid
> and dielectric at the point where the dielectric will butt up to the
> connector bottom and allow center to reach tip. Double check that none of
> the braid has bent down and contacted the center. If the tinning step was
> done correctly, this should not be a problem. Any excess tinned braid can
> be bent back up and nipped to prevent contact.
> 6. Insert cable into PL259.
> 7. Apply solder and tip to each hole to bond braid. I like to begin with
a
> small amount at first, then lift tip and solder. Then do a second small
> amount. Continue until hole is just filled. By this time heat should be
> sufficient to flow the solder, but not high enough to melt the dielectric.
> Proceed slowly but surely to fill all holes in this manner.
> 8. Solder the tip in a similar manner, applying dabs of solder and heat
> until tip is filled and flows, but not hot enough to wick solder up to the
> butt end of dielectric.
>
> My solder/rework station consists of three irons: one with medium tip for
> most jobs; one with tiny tip for smt and chip applications; one with wide
> tip for big surface area jobs. I always prefer the very thin multicore
> solder for most jobs. Heavier gauge is used when a lot of solder is
needed.
> For example, I use bigger tip and solder to tin the braid and fill the
holes
> in the PL259, and medium tip and thin solder to fill the tip.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Keith NM5G
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of W2RU - Bud
Hippisley
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 10:13 AM
> To: 'Tower Talk'
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Re: Cutting braid
>
> What I haven't seen mentioned in this series of postings about properly
> installing PL-259 connectors is a recommended wattage for the soldering
iron
> or gun. My experience has been that all these techniques being shared by
> everyone only work if the iron or gun is hot enough to _quickly_ tin (and,
> later, solder to the connector) the coax cable braid and center conductor.
> Melted dielectric is the real bugaboo for many of us, not lack of strength
> from failure to solder the braid or center conductor to the corresponding
> part of the PL-259 metalwork. In years past, I have made some of the
> strongest short-circuits you can imagine....:-)
>
> Bud, W2RU
>
> At 04:40 2005-01-16, Tom Rauch wrote:
> >> It's easier if you tin the braid before you cut it (with a
> >copper tubing
> >> cutter).
> >
> >If you fully tin the braid, all you need to do is scribe it with a
> >carpet knife then bend it and it will cleanly crack at the scribe mark.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless
> Weather Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with
any
> questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> _______________________________________________
>
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless
Weather Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any
questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
_______________________________________________
See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless Weather
Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any questions
and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
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