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Re: [TowerTalk] Hardware Question

To: Jack Berry <jlberry@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Hardware Question
From: Mahlon Haunschild <mahlonhaunschild@cox.net>
Reply-to: mahlonhaunschild@cox.net
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 08:48:08 -0600
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Jack, a proper electrical connection requires metal-to-metal contact of sufficient pressure to keep oxygen out of the connection, thereby preventing oxide formation, which would increase the resistance of the connection relatively quickly. Soldering gets around the pressure requirement because the wetting action of the soldering process prevents oxygen entry at the contact point (assuming, of course, that the connection was soldered properly). If you just screw the shell onto the cable, you don't have good high-pressure contact between the braid and the shell, which will eventually lead to failure. It may work for a little while, but eventually it will fail. Incidentally, the PL-259 was never designed to be installed this way.

By contast, consider the design of a type N or BNC conntector: a high-pressure cable clamp exerting its force on a relatively small area of the cable braid (the part that's fanned out over the lip on the front of the clamp ring). No chance of oxides forming there. There's no way that a "dry" PL-259 can perform as well as this over time.

On the subject of soldering "weapons" for PL-259s: Master Torch and Weller used to sell a rather large butane torch/iron (not to be confused with the "PortaSol" brand products). I used one of these years ago for soldering PL-259s, equipped with the biggest soldering tip available. Worked GREAT until the catalyst in the tip burned out...

regards,

Mahlon - K4OQ

Jack Berry wrote:

I have used a combination approach. A 100 what gun
with the PL-259 resting on the hot gun tip and a
Weller butane at the hole for localized heat.

Going the other direction - What are the potential
consequences of NOT soldering the connector to the
shield? I have two non-soldered connectors in service
now with no problems so far. Both are in fixed
service, zero coax movement.

--- Mahlon Haunschild <mahlonhaunschild@cox.net>
wrote:

Tom,

Wussy irons like you describe will do what you
describe: melt the cable without making a good solder connection to the
connector. I used to use a Weller 200/240-watt soldering gun for PL-259
shells, but not even that beast put out enough heat. These days I use a
butane mini-torch. Much lighter and therefore easier to control.


More heat is better than less in this case, at least
in my experience. The idea is to get the "hole area" of the connector
hot enough quickly enough so that you can solder the braid to the
connector shell quickly enough that the jacket/dielectric (esp. foam
dielectric) doesn't have enough time to melt. Use a mini-vise to hold the
cable to position the connector so you can solder two holes with one
set-up.


OK, you caught me at a weak moment: here follows my
mystical PL-259 installation procedure, developed painstakingly over
a LONG period of time: Strip jacket/braid/dielectric CORRECTLY. Flux the braid with a small amount of GOOD flux (not that Rat Shack crap;
I use strain gauge flux). Tin the braid with a soldering iron; use
only enough solder to do the job, excess will prevent installation of the
connector. Cool the cable/braid w/damp rag. Double-check the end to
ensure that no stray braid strands are where they shouldn't be. Flux the
braid again. Screw connector onto cable. Place connector into vise
with the cable wound up 1/2 turn. Heat w/torch and solder holes 1 & 2. Release vise; the cable will by itself position for holes 3 & 4. Heat
w/torch and solder holes 3 and 4. IMMEDIATELY quench the connector with the
damp rag.


Using this method, I have not had a connector
failure in something like 18 years.


5 cents, please. I accept PayPal.

Oh, by the way: results not guaranteed on vinyl
cable jackets (but surely you don't have any of that, do you?).


regards,

Mahlon - K4OQ

Tom Anderson wrote:

Fellow Tower Talkians:

Any suggestions for a high wattage soldering iron

good for using on


PL259s (100 watts or so??)? Most of the 25-40

watt irons found in the


mass hardware places (Home Depot/Lowes) seem to

melt more die-electric


than solder. Anyone use/have any luck with opne

of those Sears 100/400


watt soldering gun?

Tom, WW5L

_______________________________________________


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