There is - you can use a dipole center insulator such as the Budwig RF-1.
73, Pete N4ZR
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On 10/21/2009 6:37 PM, Pete Stark K4OM wrote:
> If only there were a device for connecting a BALanced device to an UNbalanced
> device. We could use such a device for this problem.
>
> Pete K4OM
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: TexasRF@aol.com
> To: pstark@suddenlink.net ; richard@karlquist.com ; W1JCW@hotmail.com
> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering
>
>
> Pete, the problem is there are no instructions for connecting coax to open
> wire.We were talking about fishing the center conductor through the braid to
> do the job. No connector involved at all in this case.
>
> 73,
> Gerald K5GW
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/21/2009 5:16:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> pstark@suddenlink.net writes:
> I have followed the mfg instructions to the letter for almost 50 years
> as a
> ham and 31 in broadcast tv and radio. Very few problems with solder or
> crimp connectors. When I did have a problem, it was because I didn't
> follow
> instructions. Directions for connectors are in the handbook. Fishing the
> braid thru the holes is loony. Need heat? Use one of the mini-torches.
> Use flux and a little vise.
>
>
> It is vital that instructions be followed on heliax type cable. To the
> letter.
>
> Pete K4OM
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:<TexasRF@aol.com>
> To:<richard@karlquist.com>;<W1JCW@hotmail.com>
> Cc:<towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering
>
>
> > Rick has the answer. Fishing the center conductor through the opening
> in
> > the shield is easier if you provide a few inches of extra length and
> push
> > the
> > shield up the coax so it increases diameter a bit.
> >
> > The crimp terminals are ok but I personally would solder them to the
> coax
> > after crimping for long term reliability. If you use ring terminals,
> they
> > can be bent with long nose pliers to fit around the open wire
> conductors
> > and
> > then soldered to the open wire conductors.
> >
> > 73,
> > Gerald K5GW
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/21/2009 4:33:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> > richard@karlquist.com writes:
> >
> > W1JCW wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi guys -
> >>
> >> What is your preferred way to solder an open wire feeder on say RG8
> or
> >> RG213 ?
> >>
> >> I know some cut the brand down the middle, solder it at the base and
> > work
> >> their way to the tip.
> >> Some twist it then solder or flatting it.
> >>
> >> I am looking to try something new.
> >>
> >> Suggestions ?
> >>
> >> 73-
> >> W1JCW
> >> John
> >
> >
> > To answer the original question about lead dress on the coax:
> >
> > "Something new" (to you) is to use tweezers to displace the braid
> > near the "base" (ie away from the end) such that a hole is formed
> > in the braid. This is done without cutting. Then, needlenose
> > pliers are used to grab the dielectric and yank it through the
> > hole. Sounds tricky, but I've done it dozens of times. For smaller
> > coax (up to RG58) they have a tool called a "lead extractor" that
> > makes this easier. See:
> >
> > http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=723
> >
> > This tool is too small for RG8, but gives you the idea of what you
> > want to do by hand.
> >
> > The other thing to do is install crimp terminals on the braid
> > and center conductor so that you are not soldering to the coax.
> >
> > Rick N6RK
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
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