None of that makes any sense to me at all. When I tighten down the
screws in one of those buss bars the wire deforms a bit and there's no
way it pulls out. Besides, you can loop the wire twice through the hole
in the buss bar if you're really worried about it ... you'll break the
wire before it ever pulls out and it's a whole lot faster than your method.
And as I stated in my first post, these bars are specifically designed
to accept either copper or aluminum wires ... it's stamped right on the
side of the bar.
Dave AB7E
On 2/10/2012 10:46 AM, Jack Brindle wrote:
> Strain relief. If the radials are firmly attached to the solder lugs
> then there is little likelihood that they will separate from the plate
> if pulled on, kicked, etc. My radials are up about 10 feet in the air
> - I have them not just crimped, but the wires go through the crimp
> connection and form a loop around the screw head before passing back
> through the crimp. They simply do not pull out.
>
> If the bus bars are used, the wires tend to pull out rather easily, no
> matter how tight the screw is. I also note that the bus bars are
> generally aluminum, so we still have the problem with copper (wires)
> and aluminum contacts...
>
> Jack Brindle, W6FB
>
>
>
>
>>> I've never understood why people don't just use extension buss
>>> bars ...
>>> like the kind that you can buy from Home Depot for adding more
>>> ground or
>>> neutral connections to your electric service entrance panel.
>>
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