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Re: [TowerTalk] Radial Plate Designs

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Radial Plate Designs
From: Kim Elmore <cw_de_n5op@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 16:14:17 -0600
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
That's interesting because it has not been my experience here in Oklahoma. I have seen aluminum wires corrode over a few years, but my solder joints (regular 60/40 stuff) have survived well. They begin to look dull, but I've never seen what you describe. Of course, YMMV.

Kim N5OP

On 2/11/2015 4:03 AM, Donald Chester wrote:
NEVER use regular lead/tin solder if there is any possibility that it will come in direct contact with the soil. Minerals in the soil will quickly turn the solder to white powder. I once used leaded solder to attach ground radials to a copper ring at the base of an inverted L. I ended up having to re-solder the entire ring of radials about once a month. The soldered connection would just fall apart, and the radial wires would fall loose from the ring. The radials to my present vertical were attached using silver alloy brazing rods, heated with a Mapp Gas torch. The rods and torch are widely available at plumbing suppliers, since it is against code to use regular lead solder with copper plumbing for the same reason that it doesn't work with ground radials; minerals in the water eventually destroy the soldered connection and the pipe joint springs a leak, plus the danger that lead may leach and contaminate the drinking water. The rods are not cheap, but they are not prohibitively expensive either. I brazed my radial system together in 1983, the soldered connections are buried below grade, and the silver solder connections are as solid to-day as the day they were installed, with no visible corrosion. Above-ground connections exposed to the elements over the past 32 years likewise remain intact. I use 15% silver content flat brazing rods, about 1/8" wide and 18" long. No flux is necessary. Copper sucks up that silver brazing alloy like a sponge soaks up water. Just remove any dirt or scaly corrosion with a wire brush; no need to polish the copper to a sheen. I could never understand why anyone would prefer to use a crappy metal plate with screw-on connections, when it is so simple to silver-braze connections that will last for the life of the radial system and vertical radiator, and will probably outlast the life of the antenna owner. A screw-on connection, especially in contact with the soil and subject to outdoor temperature variations will eventually fail. Those Hammy Hambone radial plates I have seen advertised are considerably more expensive than a handful of silver brazing rods and a Mapp gas outfit. Don k4kyv _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@contesting.com http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk

--

Kim Elmore, Ph.D. (Adj. Assoc. Prof., OU School of Meteorology, CCM, PP SEL/MEL/Glider, N5OP, 2nd Class Radiotelegraph, GROL)

/"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is." //– Attributed to many people; it’s so true that it doesn’t matter who said it./

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