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Re: [TowerTalk] Remote switch

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Remote switch
From: Wes <wes_n7ws@triconet.org>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 06:57:01 -0700
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
You need to read further. "This 4positionantenna switch can be used for 46 to 75 ohm systems, plus handle 2000 watts SSB, 1500 watts CW.(Tested for extended periods with ACOM1500-power amplifier) " I have a KPA500 so for me this is not an issue.

With one exception, I'm not so concerned with the connectors since they're usually connected to once and left alone. The concern I have is that the connectors seem to be pretty close to each other and my main coax is 7/8" Heliax and once that is attached I'm not sure the adjacent connector is going to be usable.

Wes

On 10/26/2019 3:38 AM, Rob Atkinson wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MS-S4A-WEB-controlled-REMOTE-ANTENNA-SWITCH-4-POSITIONS-2-KW-PEP-Ready-for-use/202778787695?hash=item2f368ebf6f:g:ec4AAOSwmxVceS5L

I'd find something else.   Two red flags:  Power rating is in PEP.
That usually means it's a cheap hammy radio item.  Look for a power
rating given in 100% duty cycle CCS.  I'd take a switch rated for 1 KW
100% duty cycle continuous commercial service in a second over
anything rated for PEP, unless the PEP power spec. is up around 5 KW.
But even then you don't have a transmit time frame.   Most ham radio
switches have tiny contact surfaces.  Not good.

The other problem I see is the UHF jacks.  They're those awful jobs
with the nut that threads down on the jack threads to hold the jack in
place.  Those things are nothing but trouble because they eventually
come loose and the whole jack twists around.  The nut is a flimsy thin
ring that's hard to get to in a cluster of jacks -- you have to have a
deep socket and crank it down but it will loosen up eventually.
Always look for the square flange panel jacks held by two or more nuts
and bolts.  They won't twist on you.  Only accept Amphenol, not
off-shore knockoffs.

73
Rob
K5UJ
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