This is the same reason why I hate using a 9" angle grinder...they can get away
from you in a hurry, and when you have a disc that big spinning that fast it
can go through you before you even know what happened. Scary!
Chris
KF7P
On Feb 22, 2014, at 13:23 , Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 2/22/2014 12:31 PM, Bryan Swadener wrote:
> That was well thought-out, Patrick. More thoughts:
>
> The model name is Super HAWG, model number 1680-20.
> See http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20
> It doesn't just provide for a second hand grip; comes with a
> second hand grip handle, which I use. I've accidentally hit
> the tower's UP limiters and had the drill try to rotate on me.
> Just letting go of the drill (and trigger) works for me. I'd rather
> have that, than stretch (or break) the tower's wirerope cable.
>
> Also, be aware that, since the chuck and motor output shaft
> are RH threaded and secured with a 1/4"-20 LH sockethead
> lock screw, it won't supply a lot of CCW torque w/o breaking the
> screw. But, it seems stout enough to lower my TX-472.
> It's worth finding and keeping a spare lock screw.
>
> vy 73,
> Bryan WA7PRC
> --------------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 09:09:04 -0600
> From: Patrick NJ5G
> To: towertalk reflector
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Drill motor
> I do not have the model touted for tower raising (Super Hog)
> but it is
> reasonable to assume in the progression of hole
> Shooter to Hole Hog to
> Super Hog that the torque capable of being produced
> escalates with
> increasing drill motor size. I don't argue against
> using the Super Hog
> and would use one myself if the situation warranted it
> but... be
> prepared, it is altogether likely you will not be able to
> hand hold it
> if the tower jams. The torque will spike and if the
> chuck becomes
> stationary the drill motor itself will in fact rotate with
> or without
> your body parts clinging to it. These drills have provision
> for a second
> hand grip (removable) which you should use. You should think
> ahead in
> positioning your hands and your body so that if the tower
> should jam
> causingt the drill itself to rotate you won't be
> injured. These tools
> are powerful and capable of doing you grievous harm if you
> are unwary.
An additional thought as virtually all of these big drill motors have enough
torque to do serious bodily harm. I've mentioned the electrician who got the
cord wrapped around his thumb and lost the thumb. I doubt I have to describe
how he lost the thumb.
Always and I have to emphasize the "always" hold the trigger with one finger in
such a position that should the bit bind, the motor will rotate away from that
finger. Never use the latch to hold the trigger in. That works fine for small
motors, but is dangerous on the larger one. When I worked in the shop, oh so
many years ago, the first operation with large drill motors was to remove that
lock button so it could not be used even accidentally. That button had to be
removed and then verified (and recorded) that the button had been removed.
It's a good idea if you have the knowledge, to remove that button.
That extra handle gives you a good hold, but if the drill is locked on and
binds, many of them are quite capable of breaking arms and legs as well as
doing other major and gruesome damage and I do mean gruesome!
Those old tools are probably a lot more rugged than the ones built today.
> Want a chuckle? I traded a home built Heathkit H-8
> computer and monitor
> to a tool store owner for the Sawzall, Hole Shooter, and a
> worm drive
> Skill saw around 1980-82. All these tools are still
> working perfectly.
> The computer, if working, would at best be a historical
> curiosity.
and probably worth a lot of money
I had a museum want my Ohio Scientific C2-8P (1978 or 79) and give me one whale
of a write off. I still have it.
73 and be careful,
Roger (K8RI)
> Patrick NJ5G
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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