I just got a steppir with 40 meter add on it I love it.
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________________________________
From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> on behalf of K9MA
<k9ma@sdellington.us>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2020 7:08:54 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Cushcraft XM-240 Shortty-Forty questions
I had an original Cushcraft A3S, which had trap coils and screws coated
with the hard epoxy. The screws clearly weren't going to turn, and I
never saw any evidence of poor connections, but I suppose the material
could have yielded. Replacement traps I got from MFJ (after insect
damage) had no coating on the traps, loose screws, wires wrapped
backwards, etc. They were junk. I would not recommend buying any MFJ
Cushcraft or HyGain antennas.
I currently have an old Cushcraft D40, also pre-MFJ. I'm pretty sure
they have shrink tubing over the coils, though there may be epoxy under
that.
Unless you see evidence of poor connections at the screws, I would leave
them as is. If the epoxy looks like it's suffering UV damage, it might
be worth covering it with UV-resistant shrink tubing or tape. I wouldn't
think the stray capacitance would be as critical is it is in traps.
My D40 has been working for over 25 years, though I did have to replace
the center insulators, and the elements aren't quite straight any more.
73,
Scott K9MA
On 9/12/2020 5:07 PM, RVZ via TowerTalk wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I purchased a Cushcraft XM-240 which was new in the box but was made about 10
> years ago. The label on the box says "Cushcraft XM-240", and doesn't mention
> MFJ, so perhaps it was made by Cushcraft. My questions pertains to the 4
> loading coils. I believe the loading coils made by MFJ have heat shrink
> tubing over the coil, is that correct? The loading coils on this XM-240 don't
> have heat shrink tubing over them, rather the coil is covered with a thick
> shiny black epoxy which is very hard. The epoxy has really sealed up the
> coils and self tapping screws that connect the coils to the aluminum tubing.
> I believe the epoxy would be rather difficult to remove so I'm wondering if
> I'm likely to have reliable results using the traps "as-is" for a couple
> years, or if I should remove the hard epoxy from the self- tapping screws now
> and replace them with screws, nuts, and lock washers? If I do replace the
> screws, should I cover them with more epoxy, use heat shrink tubing, or both?
> Thanks
& 73, Dick- K9OMWisconsin
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--
Scott K9MA
k9ma@sdellington.us
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