Besides what pete said... there are some other very simple tests to do
first.
1. break out your volt meter and measure the voltages on the motor power
outputs from the control box. They should be 12-24v and reverse polarity
when you change direction.
2. with a 12v supply capable of a couple amps carefully jumper power to the
motor pins going up to the tower and watch the antenna to see if it turns.
Reverse polarity to turn the opposite direction.
If the voltages in 1 are ok, and the rotor doesn't turn in 2, then you may
have a real problem.
Another test is to take a portable drill or 12-18v gel cell and a couple
jumpers up the tower and try to power the rotor motor directly.
David Robbins K1TTT
e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
web: http://www.k1ttt.net
AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Hollingsworth [mailto:randyholl@mchsi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 23:54
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G1000-DXA Rotator Problem
>
> I recently installed a Yaesu G1000-DXA rotor on my tower. I constructed
> the
> control cable per the Yaesu manual instructions, and against my better
> judgment, crimped, but did not solder, the pins for the molex style
> connector on the rotor control box. Sure enough, within a month, the wires
> pulled out of a couple of the crimped connector pins. I obtained a new
> connector and cable (commercially manufactured) and installed it, but now
> the rotor will not operate at all. The pilot lights are on in the control
> box, but when you push the CW or CCW switch, nothing happens. I checked
> the
> cable thoroughly before installing and all the connector connections are
> correct. In addition, I checked the resistances through to the rotor and
> they too seem reasonable. The two pins that go to the ends of the
> potentiometer in the rotor read a bit over 500 ohms, while the center tap
> on
> the pot will read about 300 ohms one side, 200 on the other. The pins that
> run to the filter and motor read about 13 ohms, which seems reasonable,
> although I do not know if that is simply the motor winding turns or a more
> complex value.
>
>
>
> At any rate, this seems to point back at the control box, although it is
> only a year old and was only in use for the month before the connector
> wires
> pulled out. I found K1TTT's article on checking Yaesu GXXXX-DXA rotors and
> tried to follow it to remove the control box cover, but his description of
> the locations of the screws to remove do not match up with my controller,
> so
> did not want to proceed until I was able to find a source that better fit
> my
> unit. Unfortunately, the info available on the web about checking these
> units is pretty sparse.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate any assistance in how to go about troubleshooting the
> problem further and on how just to remove the cover and front panel
> without
> screwing something up. Also, would appreciate any comments on whether the
> resistance readings taken on the rotor appear normal. Thanks!
>
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>
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>
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