On 5/14/2024 7:09 PM, Larry Schulman wrote:
Don't skimp
on size.
Try to use a raceway system and the appropriate connectors for cables if
possible to enter and exit your pull box. If you have to enter or exit the
pull box without the use of conduit, provide bushings for the cables.. Use
a removable sealant around cables, like Duct Seal putty (available through
Home Depot) to prevent critters from entering the pull box. .
YES on all!
Before heading to the big box stores for the big box whose photo I
posted (where I got blank stares and no stock), I got prices on the
internet. Also got a blank stare from the "nose in the air" contractor
vendor who looked down on me because I wasn't a contractor. Good news is
that a really good (but smaller) electrical supply store in town didn't
give me a blank stare, treated me well, had three of them in stock, knew
exactly what I wanted and where they were. Maybe 10% more than buying
online, and I WANT to support GOOD local businesses like theirs. I was
happy to carry it out of the store.
I have very limited experience in electrical construction, but enough to
know to pay attention to exactly the issues Larry has pointed out. My
cables enter from the bottom, the cable clamps, combined with wrapping
the coax with enough tape to fill the opening with the clamps tightened,
prevent both moisture and insects, the cable paths are very smooth,
straight into the shack. Arrestors are mounted on Al backplate, which is
bonded to the half-perimeter, multi-rod, ground system immediately
adjacent.
BTW -- in my photo, the smaller box to the right of the old panel
carries control lines for two rotators and a SteppIR, all on barrier
strips.
I remember looking at KF7P's panels; mine have several advantages,
including a layout that allowed more arrestors. This was 6-8 years ago;
don't know what he's doing now.
73, Jim K9YC
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