At 1:23 AM -0700 4/18/97, Barry Kutner wrote:
>Comment - I've read that the "water method" is not a good idea
>because the soil is not in tight contact with the rod, and the
>decreased surface area of contact increases the electrical
>resistance, diminshing the rod's effectiveness.
This may be confused with the use of water pipe as a ground rod and running
water through the pipe to "wash" its way into the ground. Pounding a solid
rod into damp soil should be fine.
>Question(s) - Are these post hole drivers available at Home Depot
>type stores? We have a lot of shale down at about the 4-5 ft level.
>Any tips how to get through it? I've used the sledge hammer method in
>the past, and sometimes can manage to break through, other times not.
Here in western Nevada we are sitting on a mile-thick alluvial plain
consisting of layers of sand, gravel and "hard pan." The hard pan sits
under about two feet of sand and can be resistant to just about any kind of
impact penetration. What I have used is a half-inch masonry drill welded
onto the end of a five-foot steel shaft. With a half-inch drill, I drill
through the hard pan and then pound a 5/8-inch ground rod into and through
the hole. There is sufficient side wall pressure to ensure good contact,
but the pre-drilled hole makes the job at least practical whereas without
it most folks around here just give up.
73, Dick
--
Dick Flanagan W6OLD CFII Minden, Nevada
Visit http://wadg.greatbasin.net/siera/
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