But, when you use multiple anchor points, you run the risk of not sharing the load among the guys as intended. The relative tension in the guys will change with their relative length, which changes w
Is the tower really able to equalize it... it's constrained by the other guys. I think the question is not quite so simple. I started to do a quick analysis on this, but got sidetracked. As you point
I'm not surprised the load and deflection is uneven. This rapid gets so complex that you're probably better off designing with a large margin and being done with it. Probably not..or, maybe it's good
Or, more in keeping with this discussion, does the FCC reg apply to "active" but not "reactive" power.. The reactive power being that which is circulating between antenna (and it's near field, presu
Higher strength bolts can also be stiffer, and can actually take more of the load as a result. I would imagine that the average tower isn't a "ragged edge of material science" design, but, the desig
I've used this software (with a FT-757GX and homebuilt RS232 interface), and it works quite nicely. One mode has a global map that lights up the beacon that's currently "hot". The only tricky part is
All the internet techniques are, of course, quite standard, but don't help if you want to build a standalone box. Say you're running out at a remote location where you don't have network connectivity
One can make quite accurate impedance measurements using the "three meter" approach at very low cost. Essentially, you hook a capacitor (chosen to have an impedance around 50-100 ohms at the frequenc
corrode have Titanium is probably a non-optimal material for antennas... Depending on alloy, etc. it forms a fairly thick semiconductive oxide layer, unlike aluminum, where the oxide is a good insula
As a first order approach... use the phased array concept of pattern multiplication ... Figure the pattern for two isotropic antennas fed in the way you want, then multiply that pattern by the patter
When you think about it, a single rod stuck in the ground doesn't provide a very good connection to "ground". The surface area of a 1/2" diameter rod 10 feet long is only about 190 square inches. A 1
Nope.. I haven't tried it for RF (got a standard ground rod hammered into the ground).. My house's electrical service, though, does use a UFER ground. A bit of web searching should turn up some info
I suppose that one could make some sort of impedance bridge measurement to measure the impedance between your "ground connection" and some standardized electrode, for which the characteristics can be
They make dust/protective caps for SO239 connectors that are threaded to match, and have a rubber gasket, just for this sort of use. About $3 from Pasternack, for instance. One could also use "Capplu
Put it in PVC conduit... Inevitably, you're going to want to change the cable, or pull another one, etc. 3/4" PVC electrical conduit is cheap and easy to install.. You have to dig the trench anyway..
I use that 1/4"-3/8" yellow poly rope.. I'd also not be skimpy on the size of the conduit. The cost difference between 1" and 3/4" isn't all that much, and every bit of extra room makes life easier.
I think the contentious issues with CC&Rs are several fold: 1) In a lot of places (certainly true for Southern California), local planning permission for a developer is contingent on the developer ha
Important distinction... The HOA cannot throw you in jail when you don't pay the fine, the local gendarmes can. A HOA speed limit is just a rule like any other (trash in your yard, clothsline, etc.)
That path lies to financial ruin... He who walks into a courtroom loses, regardless of the verdict. Aside from the usual "failure to enforce any provision does not constitute a waiver of the right to
Perhaps not exactly suing myself, but, several scenarios present themseves: 1) I go to court, win, and, get awarded "costs" (presuming there is a "prevailing party pays costs" clause).. who pays thos