Yes they are interchangeable (G800 also), however SDX and DXA have different connectors so you may need to build an adaptor pigtail. However the five control lines & pins are the same (azimuth pot pi
Their manual specs "#20 AWG or larger", which doesn't really tell you much, since they don't say if it's a 20' or 2000' run! If I was putting in a new 200' run of rotor cable, I'd get something with
Open up all the traps and clean out bugs, cobwebs, etc. When replacing the end caps, be sure they make a good seal. Make sure all the hardware (clamps, nits & bolts, sheet metal screws) are in good c
The motor windings, PINS 4 and 5. The MANUAL can be found here ;-) http://yaesu.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=104&encProdID=E0526A9F285ECCF36F75CC3FEC992990&DivisionID=65&isArchived=0
I have heard of this being done in 2-way and cellular shelters. It's usually better to have the system ground OUTSIDE the shelter, but in some special conditions this could work. Of course, also best
More or less +/- 12-20 VDC, and in the real world it seems to be pretty flexible. Typical caveats of voltage drop on long & high resistance runs. The "speed" control on the SDX/DXA controllers varies
Ya...I think it can take anything you can throw at it ;-) caveat emptor 73 k0dan OK, so under 24v for the most part. Thanks Chris More or less +/- 12-20 VDC, and in the real world it seems to be pret
If you have reactive soil, do NOT put screw anchors directly in the soil (but rather anchor them in concrete). Over time, they WILL react to the soil, will lose their strength, and will eventually fa
The Yaesu controllers are EXTREMELY un-user-friendly and very hard to take apart and service and also difficult to avoid causing collateral damage. Jim's suggestion to avoid digging in there is wise.
(Grin) I rented a "BilJax" a year or two ago...the one rented had about 50' vertical & horizontal reach, and was on a trailer (not self-propelled). You'd position the trailer, level it, then begin re
Some do, some don't. Most of my experience is with Tri-Ex towers (now Tash). One I had had a single cable which would extend 4 sections one at a time to about 70' height, when ne section was fully ex
Since you can't find the manufacturer's data, I suggest you do some web browsing and find rigger's supply outfits....on those sites you'll be able to find the working load, breaking strength, etc., o
If you can find a suitable location on unincorporated land (ie it's "in the County" but not annexed or incorporated by a town or city) then you will be subject to the County zoning ordinances. Typica
I don't have that brand tower but the solution is rather generic. A cover for the motor can never hurt, but when you search for a replacement motor, look for something that is rated for "wash-down se
Agreed...it's been a few years since I replaced my tower motor (Tri-Ex LM470), it was a 1/2 HP Leeson, I think, and after a lot of searching around I think a new unit was around $300 +/-. Not cheap,
FWIW I have a T10 which is not spec'd for 6M, but presents an acceptable SWR. Don't know what its radiation pattern is, but it seems to work "decent" on 6M. I spoke to Tennadyne at one time and they
My low freq antennas evolved along the same lines (no pun intended). Ultimately, you just need to try it. The "dipole" can be almost any length, and need not be resonant. Whatever the lowest freq you
About a month ago someone posted links to an inexpensive RC TX/RX/relay-board (around $50?) and I think this is what you're referring to? Can't find those links anymore, would you please resend? Than
Barry: With luck, you have a connector or cable problem as recently described by others. If the quick + easy approach doesn't work, you need to measure pins 1-2-3 between the rotator and control box.
I am doing this from memory, but I believe the factory specs state to have a safety loop of cable (w/ clamps) snaked through the the compression spring turnbuckles so that if the turnbuckle was to fa