snipped.... I would tend to agree more with Steve and Dave on this matter. There is simply no way in the world ( short of an advanced antenna range ) to determine how an individual element in the Ste
-- My original message referred ONLY to an installed installation, and manual attempts to optimize it. Sorry if I confused anyone. 73 Ed _______________________________________________ See: http://ww
-- Boom length is quite a bit more than a "key" contributor. It is the most critical factor in the design of any yagi. This has been addressed so many times by so many highly experienced antenna ind
-- Nope on both of the above. The highest gain possible in a yagi antenna is when the spacing between the elements is infinitely small, and by infinitely small, I am speaking of something like S=.00
-- I think we're talking metal vs another type of conductor. Porcupines are not made to prevent a strike, but to siphon off static electricity and prevent it from reaching a critical point. Good case
Well, those "reputable researchers" do not include Boeing, Airbus Industries, the McDonald Iron Works, or any other aircraft manufacturer. Believe what you want. Ed __________________________________
Read the message again. I said "conductors OTHER than metal. 73 Ed _______________________________________________ See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless Weather Stati
One big difference in the type wire used is the soil common in your area. For instance, GA has very acid soil in my area, so copper is out of the question. I use galvanized ground rods and insulated
That doesn't make sense. At what frequencies. If you're flat across the whole band, you've got a bad problem. And the loss from a 1.3:1 SWR is not enough to even worry about. Good man! 73 Ed ________
Assume you meant to type 20 here. You have a very serious problem. Which will probably require a complete disassembly of both the traps and element sections. Antennas for 15 and 10 do not exhibit 1:1
-- Probably the best place would be a hamfest for the pot. As far as the connector hookup goes, I have 4 tailtwisters and I modified all of them by using a heavy duty connecter from Davis RF. Think t
-- This may be a case of a simple ommision on Tom's part or an assumption that the rest of us know as much as he does. However, if you use an electrical 1/2 wave line connected to the antenna, the im
I did not speak of trying to cover an entire band. By definition, an electrical 1/2 wave is that at only 1 frequency. As a matter of course, every 1/2 wave line I have is cut for 25 kHz up from the
Fairly simple solution. I believe the boom on this antenna is 3". Get 2 3" muffler clamps and install them in such a manner that the center of balance is displaced to that of the original configurati
-- I don't have any nearby stations with my 259, but a friend of mine does. What I did was use an ICE 160 meter low pass filter which has an extremely high cutoff frequency at 1.6 Mhz. It's normally
Not according to the spec sheet which came with the unit. And as far as extraneous RF getting into that thing, it is so heavily shielded that I would say such is near to impossible. 73 Ed ___________
-- Well, all I can say is that the jumper cables into and out of the unit were custom made. And when the unit is switched into the circuit in normal use, there is a very noticible drop in noise level
Jim makes a good point. And a neat trick which is probably only in the minds of us old farts is to weld a motorcycle spring to the bottom of the mast, and the other end to a short piece of mast out
Yep, and a medium duty spring works well. Sort of a cut and try. Look for road kill. 73 Ed _______________________________________________ See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers",
No, front spring of medium strength. 73 Ed _______________________________________________ See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless Weather Stations", and lot's more. Ca