Roger, Have you tried Norms Rotor Service ? http://www.rotorservice.com/prod2%20parts.htm Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Towe
Looks pretty good. Is this a new Fair-Rite mix ? I wonder how it compares to their #31 and #43. Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ ______________________________________________
The longest on the top shortest on the bottom. This way the coax will hang straight down thru the arm loops. Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _________________________________
Bill, Sorry to hear about the cable failure. I have the US Tower HDX-589MDPL and had mine recabled 6 years ago by Skip, KJ6Y. His business is tower installation and repair. He has done a lot of work
300 SS grades are magnetic, depending on the alloy. We do a quick test to see if hardware is 304 or 316 SS with a small magnet in our shop. 304 is magnetic, 316 is very slightly magnetic, 316L shows
I also have had good luck with Mouse for the 83-1SP connectors. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol/83-1SP-15RFX/?qs=qhgJLQbFbXlq3q8jj3x7jA%3d%3d Bob K6UJ ___________________________________
They look like good fittings but at $2.75 each, but you can do better from Mouser. You can get the Amphenol 83-1SP fittings for $2.00 each individually and for a quantity of 10 they are $1.86 each. B
Paul, OK, the 83-866 is the one I should be looking for. I have had enough problems with PL-259's in the past and want a good silver plated Amphenol with teflon insulation as this one is. After repla
I would like to know from others in the Tower Talk group how they apply Prelube to their crank up tower cables. The last time I treated the cables I think only 50% made it in the cable, hihi. Any eas
OK, thats probably better than what I was doing. I had rubber gloves on and cupped my hand behind the cable to deflect the spray back on the cable. Seemed to work but lost a fair amount of PreLube th
Photobucket is great. I use it all the time. Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk@contesting.com h
I think the term "lubrication" is a misnomer for tower cables. Conventional lubrication with oil or grease should NOT be used on the cables because it does attract dust and grit. They should be "trea
I wonder if the pulley and bearing assemblies could be replaced with one that has a grease fitting. I would love that !! Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _____________________
How about this ? I would use a good carbide tipped masonry bit until I hit rebar, then use one of these bits to cut thru the rebar. http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/carbide/rebar_cutte
Heres a bit that will cut the concrete and the rebar too. http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/newproductshowcase27b.html Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ __________________
I'm glad I stay tuned in to TowerTalk. I didnt know these were available. gracias Hector ! Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tow
I had a full size delta loop for 80 which worked well on 80 DX. I changed the feed point from the bottom corner to 1/4w down from the apex and it worked extremely well for 80 dx, very noticeable impr
I think it will depend on your surrounding terrain. Are you on a hill with a clear shot in all directions ? I have hills NW of me and going from 40 to 50 feet makes a big difference. I ran the HTTA p
Jonathon, I had two bend several cross braces on my USTower also for the same problem. I stretched a string from top to bottom along the round bar braces and two were bent in more than the others and
Thats what I did to tweak my two bent round bar braces braces back out on my tower. I used a pry bar and slid a 10 foot length of 2" water pipe over it for extra leverage. Didnt need to be that long