< When I was working on a cellular project in Haiti in the early 2000's, <we installed a totally passive repeater system to improve coverage for the <President's palace to tide us over while we work
I've been pleasantly surprised by Grainger's in-stock galvanized bolt & u-bolt selection. I recently needed *square* 4" opening u-bolts. These are available everywhere in smaller sizes at trailer sup
Just in case my comment about Grainger hardware was less than clear - Grainger makes it clear if their part is *hot-dipped* galvanized or not. The hot-dipped hardware that I've purchased from them is
Just this past weekend I stripped my low band tower (160 & 80) of all wire and coax (it was an all day job, wore me out!), in preparation of changing the basic design. As far as antenna wire I had a
Advice I got while in my teens, and it's stuck with me (I'm now 68), is don't look down while you're climbing. Look straight ahead, think about where each hand is going, that's all. and while you're
The THHN that electricians pull thru conduit is typically stranded. I've bought many thousands of feet of stranded from Home Depot and electrical supply houses. Also available in solid, but the Home
+1 on that. He might want to prep the existing concrete somehow in an attempt to form a water tight seal with the new concrete - however concrete guys do that. -Steve K8LX Cut it off leaving a few in
+1 on that as well after donning my lawyer hat. Option 1: do what is needed to *actually* bond the two pieces of concrete - drill old concrete, epoxy connecting rods. Option 2: install permanent sign
Except Roger is envisioning sloping *dipoles*, FIVE of them. Somehow I can't picture five tuners hanging out there in mid-air at the feedpoints, begging to be tuned up and down the band. Not to menti
If the tuner(s) are mounted on the tower. -Steve K8LX On 8/17/2017 7:53 PM, Steve Maki wrote: Except Roger is envisioning sloping *dipoles*, FIVE of them. Somehow I can't picture five tuners hanging
That's the way I used to do it as well. I had alligator clip leads at the bottom end only on my sloping dipoles that jumpered around the bottom insulator for CW. Worked fine. -Steve K8LX On 8/17/2017
I must be misunderstanding you Keith. I thought you said that copper hardline is the ONLY cable that can survive outdoors for extended periods. -Steve K8LX That cable is good as gold when used proper
Well I guess I'm sometimes more of a stickler for preciseness in language than I should be. Hardline is available in aluminum varieties as well as copper. Smoothwall, corrugated, spiral. Jacketed, un
No doubt partly due to the fact that the cables can sit in water forever with no issues. -Steve K8LX There are literally millions of miles of buried conduit in the world with no "drain holes" and the
Muletape is the only thing to use. It's flat & slippery, does not tend to twist, and won't burn thru your PVC corners. And cheap. And strong. -Steve K8LX On 8/28/2017 1:03 PM, Steve K7AWB wrote: I am
Depends on what you're pulling, how big the conduit is, how many bends, etc. In worse case scenarios I avoid knots of any kind in the pull line. I stagger the cables being pulled and simply tape each
Yes, the footage marks on muletape are an added benefit. At the *pull* end of the conduit I usually rig up a strategically placed pulley in line with the conduit to avoid pulling over the sharp edge.
The typical turnbuckle safety wire is designed to prevent inadvertent unscrewing of the turnbuckle, either from vibration or random vandalism. It's not to support the tower in the event of a turnbuck
For any kind of serious ham tower work, a good quality cathead, or capstan hoist, is a Godsend. As Wayne mentioned, the AB Chance catheads are the industry standard. Unless you are pulling loads far
Well they should not be operated while drunk or when texting, that's for sure. Nor by someone with zero training. When you have the proper number of wraps on the drum (when it takes approx 5-10 lbs o