One of my towers matches that description. Purchased in the early 70's, it's a RBX-50 made by E-Z Way Products Co of Tampa, FL (may be out of business now). It has a ground post with the "wings". The
Mine started to lean just a bit several years ago having been in the ground over 20 years. No worries, I just hooked on 3 "come-along" winches, then dug a hole next to the hole that has the sand, wa
IIRC, it's a bifilar-wound 1:1 choke. If you are having problems with it like I once did, I clamped the case in a vise and opened it up using a sharp utility knife, nudged along with a hammer. There
The sand there was most likely beach sand composed of rounded grains that can "slip by" each other. The fine sand, recommened to me by EZ way in ~1973, has "sharp" grains that really pack together an
I was curious if McMaster had those. The bolts I saw were "low stength" and didn't comply with ATSM F1554 Grade 55. Google is pretty much one's friend when searcing for a supply of the higher streng
I have a old EZ-way tower (RBX-50) and NO WAY would I use any kind of plastic/nylon pulley on that lift system!!! Sure, the nylon might carry the load when new, but nylon eventually will get brittle
Not to take away ads from Steve...good products there... but I saw Galen WB0W at a hamfest today, so I asked him if he was still making tower jacks, etc. He said YES! and they recently purchased a ne
Gents, could some please decipher this split-bolt connector size? "ABI 16-4 SOL S-4" I'm guessing it's an ABI brand, other than that I'm not sure what the "running" size is and then the wire "tap" si
I don't know if your rotator has the hole for a "pin" or not. Can you pin the mast to the rotator? On my rotator, a Tailtwister, I use, IIRC, a 5/16 SS bolt through the mast and through the rotator "
A auto junk yard guy once told me that rusted-on nuts can be removed by heating the nut with a torch. I would think a MAPP gas torch would work for that. Or... Use a nut-cracker. If none is available
IIRC, W8JI punches a hole on the strap, slips it over a ground rod, then hard-solders the connection. It "looks" like he might shape the strap to help hold a pool of solder until it hardens. Note tha
Richard, Just a guess on my part, but the case is probably held together by some "tabs" and "hooks" (for lack of their proper names). See if it is by pushing in along the seams. If not then..... Is t
Usually 30 days...that's the answer I was given when I erected a tower recently. I rented a concrete vibrator tool as advised by a fellow towertalkian.... It made moving the concrete around in the ho
OK...but that $200 cost is probably a small fraction of your total antenna/tower/hardware investment....BUT, having said that....*if* you are willing to build something, why not build a simple "repea
Jorge, I had that problem with my underground pipe. It is 200 ft long and 4" dia. I corrected that with a Tee connector at both ends of the pipe where it comes out of the ground. I screened the Tee
I would add that the use of a concrete vibrator works wonders for moving "stiff" concrete around in the hole and around forms with little effort....no voids anywhere and the concrete at the forms was
Partick, That's the smartest thing you could have done. Not necessarily just for the water problem, but because you'll have no problems running any new cables later on. Number those drip tubes. Witho
IMHO, I would sure think so too, but it wouldn't hurt to ask the folks who make the "phylli". IIRC, it wasn't that difficult when I installed my PS years ago. What I did, was to apply some tape wher
Pete, There's a small plastic spool with wire wrapped around it that forms the RF choke on the HF bands. I'm pretty sure it's also a "matching" coil since the reactance will vary band-to-band. If som
Hi Gents, A fellow ham uses a antenna, similar to this one, mounted on his car, to locate sources of powerline RFI. (Actually, the one he uses is way below.) http://www.sea-avionics.com/lc/cart.php?t