FWIW...I needed connectors for the 1/2 aluminum coax quite a few years ago. I didn't think of K8RI's neat idea of the brass fittings back then. What I did was to make an adapter-sleeve with a ~1" len
If you have a drill press, you can drill a hole, or holes, across the head on the bolts, then "safety wire" (see Wikipedia) the heads to prevent them from loosening. Safety wiring is a essential prac
Jerry, I don't have the hole pattern, but if you have the bearing, and need to make a pattern, you can tape a piece of thin paper to the bearing, then use the "side" (vs the point) of an ordinary lea
Maybe some bright yellow or red plastic tubing on the loading wires like the power companies use on guy wires? Charlie, N0TT _______________________________________________ __________________________
The capacitor can be mounted on or close to the tower. That will save some voltage drop. Also check the capacitor, especially if it's very old. Look at the schematic for connections. On the brake pro
I had the "hum" problem right after I switched from a quad to a beam antenna....nothing else was changed. I would hear it in the receiver regardless of band or mode. It is a ground loop. Right or wro
I'm pretty sure there was an article in one of the mags, maybe QST or Ham Radio, that described a relay with a timer circuit that would allow about 5 seconds before the brake would be released. Later
FWIW....I found that silicone and even glue products in a tube can be kept for months by preventing air from entering the tip. I use a plastic "wire nut" of an appropiate size *filled* from the botto
I believe it!! Some of my HyGain traps were full of sunflower seeds, placed there by Woodpeckers!! Charlie, N0TT _______________________________________________ _____________________________________
I prefer a simple trap vertical for portable use. I use an old HyGain 18avt/wb modified for airline travel. The antenna bag includes a tripod and coax. I use "roof mount" radials eventhough I mount t
That's right it WILL condensate inside. I did that at first, then MOLD began to grow in the underground plastic pipe (conduit). I cured that issue by installing Tee fittings at both ends of the 200f
Hi Steve, The best way to check tower vertical aligment is with a surveyer's transit level that is properly set up. Another way is to hold up a plumb bob with a string, arm extended. (Yeah, it's hard
That pretty much agress with the formula I posted yesterday: H/360. So, with a 100ft tower, the total deviation is 100*12/360 = 3.3 inches. 73, Charlie, N0TT ________________________________________
What Rick said reminded me of a QST article quite a few years ago...might have been in the "Hint and Kinks" column. A guy used a drill to raise and lower the tower with the winch/hoist that was mount
I have to clean those rotary coils also. I use a contact cleaner on a rag. Press the rag on the coil and rotate the coil a few times to clean. _______________________________________________ ________
Heh....heh...some of my traps were stuffed with sunflower seeds!! :D) I'm thinking I need to back to a 4-el quad. A commercial version this time. 73, Charlie, N0TT __________________________________
Bingo! That's the reason. Sealing up any (to begin with) microscopic cracks before they become bigger cracks. Of course that won't help the concrete below ground where it can (and does) absorb water
notch, and everything steel is hot dip galvanized AFTER fabrication.< FWIW, welding galvanized metal is really quite hazardous, so there's a "win-win" situation there, for both the customer and the
If you buy the sections that have a "belled" end, you won't need extra couplings. 73, Charlie, N0TT _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ To
The problem with the thin-walled Drain & Waste pipe is that it WILL squash easily over time IF it is not installed properly. Proper installation, among other things, is to solidly backfill on the bot