Does anyone know what grade of bolts are specified for the tower to base bolts on a UST 572HDX? These are 3/4-10 x 2" galvanized and I need to replace several but no info in the docs I have. They are
Try this: https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Electrical-Connectors-Electrical-Termination/Welding-Cable-Connectors/search.aspx?SectionID=4&GroupID=7971 Les W2LK Bob therfc.com Sent from my i
Mike, Just had this done in September for a UST 572HD base. 5x5x8 with 3000# mix for $4200. When I asked around locally, I heard prices from $4K to $6K so you're probably good to go. 73 Les W2LK Bid
Tom, I did a translation of the Chinese and I think it's an "I am out of the office" message or something similar. I sent him a message translated into Chinese that we pretty much only speak English
When using N connectors, always use ones with captivated contacts. On these, the center pin has an extra 'collar' towards the cable end which fits into a slot in the insulation material and keeps the
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Hi Rob, They're easy to work on. The outer shell has an upper and lower part with a plate between. The shaft and its large gear and the limit switches are above the plate and the motor and reduction
In other words, the inner tube is clamped by the screw head through to the far wall of the outer tube by the nylock nut which is on the exterior of the outer tube. The screw head is not clamping the
Phil, Yes. Call them and tell them what you need. They have the replacement cables in kits for each of their towers. Everything you need is in the kit. Les W2LK On 8/17/2015 4:36 PM, Phil Snyder wrot
That's why I bought from UST. The cable crimp is the biggest potential failure point if not done properly. Not worth the risk for the few extra dollars having it come from the manufacturer. Les W2LK
Hans, If you are looking for a package to use, there are several good ones. I am most familiar with DXLab which will do just about anything you need and probably a lot more. See: http://www.dxlabsuit
Chris, I had a similar problem that turned out to be the coax. It leaves the top of the tower over an arm, then hangs. The center conductor migrated at the top of the arm. I had to cut that section o
My experience with a DXE switch after 10 years has been no problems, no failures, no issues. I would go with them again. In addition to those already mentioned, Green Heron makes one. Les, W2LK thank
I came home from Visalia to find my antenna system freewheeling. The mast holds 4 yagis, one of which is very large, and is rotated by an Orion rotator. If my suspicions are correct, the problem is t
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. This morning I got two 2" muffler clamps and at our local surplus place a piece of 1/4" steel plate about 3" x 4". I drilled the plate to accept the pair of clamp
Very interesting Grant. Thanks. The 1/4" bolt sits on a split lock washer on top of a 1/2 tall spacer which rests on the drive plate. The centering block is a later style that has a recess that sits
Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jlPcBVg45E Les W2LK Sent via the Samsung Galaxy SŪ6 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone _______________________________________________ ______________________
Bob, What did you re-lube it with? Les W2LK On 5/13/2016 3:50 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote: I would like to add something to the list of maintenance items. The reduction gear used for the motorized winch on th
I have an older UST HDX-589MDPL and a less old HDX-572MDPL. There was a discussion early this year about the type of lubrication to use in a Hub City reducer which was a great help in getting ready t
Bob, Both of mine have a chain from the reducer to the cable reel and there is a plug in about the same position. These plugs are in line with the center line of the two shafts. In whichever position