I would like to hear from those in regards to ideas for the following. I know there are those who have long runs of control cabling for rotation, switching, etc. so I seek your ideas and advice. I ha
Every connector and splice is a potential point of failure. IMO don't break lines to add them unless you really need them. The newer Ham IVs use a Cinch Jones plug on a pigtail. While the wire juncti
For cable size, study the manual for the rotator to learn what they recommend for what length, then apply Ohm's law. For all of my control cables, there's a splice at the base of the tower and just o
A primary point/concern of my post is the length of the run on the temporary 300 ft and to the final goal of 700 ft. What size of the conductors/wire/cable to utilize for the effort. Some part being
Do you have A/C power at your tower? It may be easier to buy a controller that can be remote controlled and just use a short run of rotor cable from the base of the the tower to the rotator. I think
For such a length, would installing the motor-start capacitor, normally inside the control box, nearer to the rotor help? 73, kelly, ve4xt Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________
I have a need for a temporary set up of a run that is 300 feet from the operating position shack/controller to the top of the tower controlling a Ham 4 rotator. The final set up with be a run of 700
The capacitor is not a starting capacitor. The Hy-Gain motor requires a phase shift between windings to run (a capacitor run motor). The direction of the phase shift determines which direction which
This is my next step. I'm using the Green Heron Everywhere wireless system for my antenna switching and rotor controls (RT-21's). The RT-21's are off my operating desk and sitting on a shelf at the a
The capacitor is not a starting capacitor. The Hy-Gain motor requires a phase shift between windings to run (a capacitor run motor). The direction of the phase shift determines which direction which
I'm using the Green Heron Everywhere wireless system for my antenna switching and rotor controls (RT-21's). The RT-21's are off my operating desk and sitting on a shelf at the antenna entrance wall.
My installation is MUCH simpler that those being discussed. I haven't implemented it, but I would consider a battery with a small solar panel for charging at the tower. Wes N7WS Right now, I'm work
This basic concept is used to power anchor windlasses on mid-sized boats. The windlass motors draw 100-200 amps. A dedicated battery is mounted close to the windlass motor and its control solenoid. T
You can save a lot of heavy gauge wire by using a rotator without a brake. A brake adds controller complexity, it sometimes sticks and it requires two extra conductors. I believe only Hy-Gain uses br
So will the HyGain Tailtwister hold securely with no creeping if I disconnect the brake wire ? I have had the typical stuck brake scenario with my old Tail Twisters in the past and I like the idea of
How will it rotate at all without the brake power engaged? That's what "releases" the brake. Unpowered, it's engaged. So will the HyGain Tailtwister hold securely with no creeping if I disconnect the
I see what you mean. Oh well, so much for that idea ....................... Bob K6UJ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing
The only time I've experienced a "stuck" T2X is when the rotator is at or nearly at its stop point (for me, due South) so "rocking" it out of lock is impossible. Once that happened exactly once, I le
No, Hy-Gain uses a spur gear drive which offers very little resistance to turning so they need a wedge to maintain position. John KK9A So will the HyGain Tailtwister hold securely with no creeping if
And, if you disconnect the brake wire, the brake will never release! Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, AZ No, Hy-Gain uses a spur gear drive which offers very little resistance to turning so they need a w