Phil: I have a T10 and love it. It beats the heck out of the two triband beams I had previously. When I put it up no adjustment was needed, it was flat SWR wise on all bands. http://lists.contesting.
Michael: Couldn't tell from the msg what type of rotor you were discussing. Tom, WW5L http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk _______________________________________________ __________
Clint: I've found them at my local Fry's Electronics in their parts section. They have dozens and dozens of different bulbs there. Tom, WW5L http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk htt
Al: I originally had a (2 actually)Fulton K-1550 winch on my TriEx W51 crank up tower for raising and lowering the tower's top 2 sections only. I replaced them with a Fulton K-2550, because of the ho
Brad: If you'll e-mail Bob, WB5IUU, in Magaolia TX, near Houston. He can tell you call about the mechanical winch that used to come with the TriEX W51. bmennell@comcast.net He should respond fairly q
Joe: I'll "count" the turns next time I lower/raise mine hi hi. Never bothered to count, although I know the 2550 has an "easier" winch to use rather than the 1550. I just know my arm is/was tired ei
FWIW, in years past a lot of old timers told me to maintain at least a 10 foot separation between multiple antennas/beams mounted on the same mast. I've always done that with no "apparent" interactio
On my Ham IV I've always attached the largest gauge wires to terminals 1&2 on the rotor and control box. Tom, WW5L http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk http://lists.contesting.com/m
Keith: Do you have a supplier for the Molex connectors? I used to use the 8 pin one, but when I redid my coax and rotor cables I couldn't find the 8-pin ones anywhere incluing Mouser. Ended up using
Alan: One thing you can do that a lot of friends of mine have done. This would be to put up the tower you have planned with whatever antenna on top you have or are planning on buying. Use this a whil
Bert: What I did on my crank up 50 ft W51 TriEx 50 ft tower was expand the base by 1 foot in each direction. I always figure a little more concrete won't hurt and give it a little more support. Also
Lee: I've had a W51 since 1992 when they were made by TriEx and Karl Tashjian was their chief engineer. To my knowledge the W51 was never meant to be motorized as that was never listed in the options
Scoutt: In addition to what Gerald said, which is always good advice, another problem in Texas similar to the wasps are fire ants. My dad used to have a farm near Whiteboro TX almost to Oklahoma in N
Joe: Folks can also try Fry's Electronics if they need a rotor box bulb. The one nearest us in Irving TX has a large supply of various bulbs and I found the right one there for my Ham IV rotor contro
I've been trying for months to get the "right" set of standoffs for my W51 crank up from Tashjian. They sent me the ones for a larger tower and the standoffs, at least the first one, won't tighten up
Dick: I'm sure some hams face the same problem I do. My tower and grounds are on one side of the house and the electric co. grounds are on the other. To get to them, I'd have to drill a hole undernea
Fellow Tower Talkians: In the October issue of "Electric Contracting Products" page 26 is a product announcement of a new ground rod driving tool "The Sluggo-Ox" from Sluggo Ox Corp. As a note I have
Fellow Tower Talkians: I just checked their web site and the MSRP is $119.95 which does make it a bit pricey. Tom, WW5L PS: But again I just passed the idea along. ___________________________________
Harbor Freidht frequently has a 1 inch rotary drill/driver on sale for about $69 or so. I hear those also work pretty well. Tom, WW5L PS: the reference earlier was strictly an FYI on something I had
If you want a 1" hammer drill, check with Harbor Freight on line or your local store. They often have them for around $69.00 on sale or with an online coupon. To get the online coupon you have to sig