Also, you can climb it unguyed too. Try that with a commercially made MFJ Hytower! -- Original Message -- From: "larryjspammenot@teleport.com" <larryj@teleport.com> To: <towertalk@contesting.com> Sen
I would assume that temporary guys would be in order. Although my homebrew version of the Hygain Hytower is unguyed and I climb it all the time. It's made from 3 Rohn 24 sections and set in a yard of
On page 11-25 in the 20th Edition Antenna Handbook(ARRRRRRGGL) it gives all the optimized dimensions of a 204BA. You can call me if you don't have that info available. I'll be up until 11:30 EDT 813-
The 20th Ed agrees with the element spacings but the tip dimension are different, They are: R 56.0 DE 52.0 D1 61.5 D2 50.125 I put the optimized spacings and the above tip lengths in YO 7.1 and the p
You also have to mention that you need to feed it 1/4 wave down from the apex for vertical polarization. Feeding it at the apex or in the middle of the base leg makes it horizontal, bad for low angle
Actually, the delta loop is fed at one of the lowers by many because of convenience. When fed at that location, it is more of a oblique radiation polarization pattern rather than the preferred vertic
Get the apex up as far as possible, feed it in one of the corners, put at least 5KW into it and you'll be loud everywhere. Bob -- Original Message -- From: "Bill Axelrod" <bill@axelrods.org> To: "Ric
Actually, if I had limited space or, as in my case, only allowed to put up one antenna(XYL), I would make a homebrew Hygain Hytower with at least 60 radials under it. The vertical will work on 20, 40
Richards, enough of this drivel. You're letting your newness to the hobby show. Instead of continuing this thread, why not go get your Extra and come down and work the real DX. Bob -- Original Messag
Instead of trying to find a duplicate of what you have, why not use of those insulated pier pins like the broadcast stations use? I had one but sold it last year to a ham in the NE. I see that there
Bronze wool works great. Also, they sell a pad that's green on one side and black on the other, kind of like a brillo pad but w/o the soap. Why worry about making the elements shiny? The last thing y
Most towers that were designed not to have positive pull down cannot be EASILY modified to have the pull down feature. It all comes down to the fact that the pull up cable has to wind in at the same
When I started reading your response I thought I was going to learn something then I realized that you could have done the same thing by just grabbing the bundle of coax lines and pulling down on the
Why spray at all? Maybe if you live close to salt water but otherwise it's been my feeling that all that sticky s&%t just attracts airborne particles. 15 years for a set of galvanized aircraft wire r
Not only are they smaller, they are STRONGER!!!!!!!!, anyone that uses the nut tightened cable clamps deserves whatever happens. There is no comparison between the strength and reliability of the Nic
I do believe that the Telrex monoband yagis employed the use of a T match in the driven element. The impedance of a T match is not 50 ohms but 400 to 600 ohms. You would probably need a 9:1 Balun. A
I just looked in an old ARRL Handbook and they say that you need a 1/2 wave of 50 ohm coax to match a T to 50 ohm coax. You have to take the VF of the cable being used for the balun. ________________
You are not only a pessimist, a bad speller too. -- Original Message -- From: "Richards" <jruing@ameritech.net> To: "Martin Staffa" <geitaemort@sbcglobal.net> Cc: <TowerTalk@contesting.com> Sent: Wed
IMHO, the W0MLY remote antenna switch is(was) the best you could buy. Since MLY died a few yrs back, I don't believe that anyone has been making it although I could be wrong. The unit uses a ceramic
Gary, you really need to read an article written by Al Christman, K3LC. Just look him up on Google under his article name: Maximum Gain Radial Ground Systems for Vertical Antennas. It was originally