Thats the one! Cheap, too! Thanks Dick, K6KR From: Joseph or Ruth Patrick [mailto:hdmc38@bellsouth.net] Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 11:06 AM To: dieven@comcast.net Cc: towertalk@contesting.com Subj
http://www.greenheronengineering.com/download-files/RT-21%20Manual%202_1.pdf Idiom Press sells some add-on computer control adapters for the Yaesu rotators. I don't see them advertising the G-800sa a
You might find this article helpful: http://www.kg4jjh.com/pdf/Antenna%20Rotator%20Controller.pdf Dick, K6KR I've got a Channel Master to rotate my Hexbeam. It has only three wires that control it. A
The square riveted boom to element brackets are similar to those I had on Force 12 antennae. I don't know for sure which Force 12 antenna that is, but I would guess it's a C something. Dick, K6KR --O
I have a plastic utility box that will contain lightning arrestors and TVS diodes for rotator control lines. I?d like to attach it to the face of my tower (Rohn 55G). The tower rungs are on the order
A metal box would probably work with a short inside length U-bolt, but the plastic box has at least 3/4" of "waffle" on its back. That makes it a lot stronger, but more difficult to mount with U-bolt
I'm going to try the shim idea first before drilling the clamp. I've ordered a 5" length of 3" OD 0.0625" wall stainless steel tubing. I can slit it with a hand grinder if I can't get it over the exi
The loss difference between a one- or two-meter length of any quality coax product else isn't much. In shack I'd be more interested in shield coverage and physical flexibility than low loss. LMR-400
I think HFTA is by Dean Straw, N6BV. In any case, it's the program you want for this. Ward edited the new Antenna Book, and included Dean's programs. Dick, K6KR Thinking about the SteppIR DB 18, 40m
Google Earth is another (free) tool that you can use to determine the latitude and longitude of your specific antenna location. Dick Agreed, HFTA is the way to go. ARRL Antenna Handbook ed 21 include
Andreas, I started my planning at my current location with that same requirement: no guy wires. I had previously owned a US Towers 89' crankup, which worked well for many years. But I was changing an
I have a HyTower whose 24' of base tower section has been painted to blend in with the forest. The painter got a little carried away at the ends where electrical contact is needed. I'd like to remove
Steve and I made some up with angle iron purchased at the local Ace Hardware and big U-bolts. My mast is 2-7/8 tho Dick, K6KR _______________________________________________ _________________________
I use a 1:1 balun mounted on the wall outside the radio room and bring a short coax line (about 10 feet) into the shack to an ATU. I didn't want to bring open wire into the shack without preparation
What I do is use an antenna analyzer (like an MFJ 259B or RigExpert AH-54) to find the antenna's current resonant frequency (where the SWR dips), then calculate the length of wire I need to add or su
I have a guyed tower, and we're going to have a good number of construction vehicles on site for a new house build. One of the guy wires is very near a natural parking area for contractors, and some
Good idea, Bill. WC1M pointed me to some on eBay, but I suspect shipping will be the rub. My requirement is for a limited time period (a year or so) and I can deal with deterioration over that time.
That is a great idea, thanks! Dick Now this one is ALMOST a no brainer!!! It's a construction site. As such, it has a "port-potty". Have them place the potty under the most at risk guy-wire at the lo
Double nutting and LockTight assures that the nuts don't wander away from the bolts. It sounds like you need to increase the friction between mast and clamp somehow. Is the first set of nuts tight en
I would suggest that the cost of one additional 10' Rohn 25 tower section might be less than the long-term cost of roof mounting. Dick, K6KR Mark, You make a very sane suggestion. My reason for putti