Why do you think the wire rating should be any different than in the house? Wire size should be rated for the full amount of the breaker. A 15 amp breaker will not trip at 15 amps immediately. It tak
Aluminum is about the only thing that the power company uses nowadays for the drop cable to your house. But you do not want any aluminum inside the house. Most places do not allow its installation an
Nice pictures Roger. Only problem with your installation method is you do not have as good a ground connection with earth as you would if they were driven in. It is recommended that rods be driven in
I don't follow your logic here. The #10 wire that he had is ok for a 30 amp breaker. Which by the way (the #10 wire) is "a little more than 1/2" as you advocate, for the 50 amp breaker but was obviou
Hi Jim, I have to take issue with you on some of this: Jim Lux wrote: Folks.. The rules in the NEC for conductor sizing and overcurrent protection are sort of complex, and one does not necessarily de
K8RI on Tower Talk wrote: Nice pictures Roger. Only problem with your installation method is you do not have as good a ground connection with earth as you would if they were driven in. Not at all. Th
Keith Dutson wrote: A load of Cu strap just arrived at the house, rolls of 3 in and 1.5 in. The edge of the 3 in roll is somewhat battered and will need to be straightened. I plan to use a piece of w
Randy wrote: It *will* cause concrete to explode exactly like wood, trees, etc., i.e. the sudden vaporization of the moisture within causing a violent expansion thereof. Personally, I wouldn't want s
They were not experts that you heard that from. It is true that there is nothing you can do to prevent a strike but there is plenty you can do to deal with one and prevent it from doing damage. Light
jimjarvis@comcast.net wrote: I was responsible for a 500' self supported installation, AM/FM/commercial tenants, and significant effort was placed on routing strike current away from the foundation c
The copper when in contact with the galvanized tower will remove the galvanizing. A stainless sheet between copper and tower leg will work fine. Polyphaser makes some hose clamps with an additional s
Nice right angle inductors there mike. >:) 73 Gary K4FMX Tom WA9WSJ wrote: Hi Mike, I used a stainless steel U-bolts for my system. Check out this link for the info and pictures. http://www.wa9wsj.co
Jim Lux wrote: However, what's really important (at least according to the ap notes) is the system, not just the components. That's where the unbiased advice is needed. A commercial installation is g
How about a condom? 73 Gary K4FMX Roger K8RI on Tower wrote: You might try to find a bicycle tire innertube of the proper size. I know it's small, but there many be some that will fit. Won't be cheap
No bragging allowed. 73 Gary K4FMX Roger K8RI on Tower wrote: That's certainly using your imigination, but I didn't know they were made that small<:-)) OTOH maybe they are using large coax. How about
Tom Rauch wrote: cheaper -- and it accepts the correct connectors. There really is a difference with the extra shielding -- you can see it in much reduced ghosting on signals, especially in metropoli
Tom Rauch wrote: If someone thinks increasing something that doesn't set the limit is important, that's fine. Let's just not pretend it is good engineering or good science. 73 Tom Just saying it does
Michael Tope wrote: Of course, unlike the pregnant CATV version, the Belden instrument was long and slender, properly terminated, and operated below waveguide mode cutoff :):) In either case, these s
I would bet that the corroded clamp is not the proper grade of stainless if stainless at all. 73 Gary K4FMX Terry Gerdes wrote: Having spent 11 years working on radar systems in the Marshall Islands,
Joe Subich, K4IK wrote: I strongly disagree. L.B. bases his recommendation for the 88' dipole on only one factor, the ability to maintain a broadside lobe between 3.5 and 14.5 MHz. That's not the onl