And, in my world, a good installation still requires periodic maintenance, still encounters corrosion, bird droppings, cables need to be replaced, new antennas get added, etc., etc. And, if things go
Rob: Generally, the 72' tower at this QTH is parked just shy of 100%, unless bad WX threatens or we are leaving town.Then it is motored down to around 50% or all the way (about 22' fully tested). Ove
Interesting, never considered speed. This thread is kind of mixing "crank ups" and "motorized", but the feet-per-minute issue still is a factor I've owned hand-crank and motoroized. Don't want to sta
The stuff I use is called "PRELUBE 6"...you can GOOGLE it and find a bunch of suppliers. It's about $10 a can, not real cheap, but affordable, and a can is enough for one or two good treatments. On t
Ken: I have an old TriEx catalog (not the greatest in those days!) but I can take a look at it and try to compare your tower (and T652) to it if you wish. I have broadband, you can send as big a pict
Anthony... Sorry I can't address your question about soil compaction for your anchors, but since you're concerned about their performance, you may also want to look into the corrosive qualities of yo
Well from my recently-related tower adventure of some years ago (Rest In Peace), this is definitely the case. What perturbs me (and this is all water of the damn dam now) is that there were no warnin
from poor to excellent, both in terms of their anchor capabilities as well as their tendency to corrode over time. Here, in central Missouri near the MO/KS state line, the soil is about 6'-12" of ni
fail Don: This could well be true; in my one (and hopefully only) case of screw anchor failure, the rod (if I remember right this was a 4+ foot rod, with a 4" or 6" auger on the end? Can't remember
HI DENNY...SEE CAPS. way, way beyond Rohns data for 25G... They are installed with screw anchors into sandy ground... They have been up more than ten years without any incident or evidence of failure
I agree with this. If I was to do it all over again, in my environment and with my soil conditions, I'd have the anchor holes drilled and belled (deep shaft, with ball cavity at end) and would pour c
This topic has generated many threads. I was one of the "screwees" but I'd like to point out there have been TWO types of failures reported. One type described anchors being pulled out of "soupy" soi
Wow. Deja Vu all over again! That's EXACTLY what my failed anchor looked like! Lucky you, you found it and took corrective action at the last possible minute. I've already told my tale of woe. 73 Dan
I had the same problem. Not sure if the motor or controller is broke, but be prepeared to pay and wait (but they will do a decent job). You can contact them at 714-827-7600. Also, there's a fair numb
You don't say what frequency you wish to operate on, but... If you have a very long run of feedline, the ladderline will have lower losses, but you need a balund and/or tuner to get it to 50 ohms at
Bob If it was me, I'd sure try to suspend the dipole horizontally between the trees at 100+' and deal with the feedline when it gets near the ground. A flat dipole should be the better performer at t
I'd vote for a flat top dipole as high as you can get it, with ladderline feed (or a variety of loops, as others have suggested). 300 ohm or 450 ohm line will be an easier match than 600 ohm. You can
Try it with what you've got, you have nothing to lose and it could work fine. Since it sounds like you don't have a link coupled (ala EFJ Matchbox) or balanced-balanced tuner, then you'll probably ne
FOR SALE YAESU ROTOR CABLE KIT New & unused 40 meter (approx 130') heavy duty rotor cable kit from G2800-DXA rotor package. Factory rotor cable plus factory-wired metal rotor connector and Molex-styl
If a person wanted to join this debate, and take advantage of cheap/free 75 CATV cable (I haven't found any that fell off a truck in my neighborhood), where would they go, who would they contact? Don