To those veterans of this reflector sri abt being a broken record but I feel compelled again to state my opinion. First my response to these types of opinions, "All that being said, if <city name> do
" The building department refused to accept my permit application for a 72' crankup on the grounds that it is a violation of the zoning ordinance." And unfortunately, here's an example of where one h
if all the cables leave the tower at the same height using the same bracket and have the same length and assuming the anchors are relatively close to 120 degrees apart with the same distance away fro
First, do a search about grounding in the archives; this topic, in all forms, has been thoroughly & exhaustively discussed here many times over. Do what the manufacturer's say and don't go cheap; lig
Can I let the coax (RG8 - Type) hang down fairly low to the bottom of the tower (say 10 feet or so). What is the pitfalls of allowing the coax to hang freely. I will be using Budwig centers which are
"I plan to increase the tubing thickness for the longest two elements for approx the 1st 10 ft out from the boom." This may be OK and possibly rig up a guying arrangement to hold these long elements
"I am also thinking that all of these specs "assume" that you will have sections 6n - 1w which I don't so that should give me some relief. I only get to do this once so am looking for good input from
Personally I use my chain rebar hook positioner all the time on both types of towers, which I have. I will also bring up a simple strap with safety hooks on the ends for additional use, like standing
Round member antennas are sat dishes. Yagis, etc are Flat member antennas. You should see those rating also. Phil KB9CRY -- Original message -- _______________________________________________ See: ht
I'll take a stabe at this. First off, go to the Polyphaser and ICE websites and thoroughly read up on what they recommend for second floor shack grounding. You've grounded the shields but you've not
I also concur with the info below. Go to the following website for more info on one manufacturer of the drill and epoxy products that one may use. Phil KB9CRY http://www.us.hilti.com/ He wants to use
I've been familiar with Loos gauges for years on the boat and now with my guyed tower. Tension is tension and it won't make a bit of difference what the material of construction is. If you know the w
Understanding how your instrument actually works is very beneficial and can be enlightening. I have used them for years on the sailboat to tune the rig and have a couple of comments. The Loos gauge i
And, not trying to be snippy, a place called Farm N Fleet has 14 gauge galvanized electric fence wire at 1/4 mile for about $13. I loop a length over my hand , sideways, cut it, and then bend is a li
Yep many options. Personally I do not bury my radials; too much effort in my opinion. What I do is cut the grass very short and then using many many of my cheap electric fence wire pins, pin them dow
in my opinion it is "cheaping out" that has people going to non-steel. It is the desire to save TIME on cutting and installing insulators on the EHS steel cable and instead going to inferior guying (
Investigate a pennant/flag/loop antenna or a K9AY loop. There's tons of info out there, do a Google search. Phil KB9CRY -- Original message -- _______________________________________________ See: htt
What I've found is that, especially during the climb and descent, is to go up and down the tower like one would on a Trylon tower. That is, up and down a leg, meaning, keep a tower leg in the middle
What I've done on my shunt feed/omega location is that my plastic box with the caps inside is located also next to the tower and I just ran my three wires from my cage down on an angle from the lowes
I also do the same as Gene with my 72 foot Trylon. I use a wire cage of three 14 Ga. wires arranged in a tee held out 2 ft from the tower by PVC pipe. The tap point is about 35 ft up the tower. I use