Hi John, I have my coax runs underground in 4" PVC pipe. Along with that is a run of 12-2 w/ground UF cable...intended for direct burial. At the shack end, I have a flexible cord and plug to connect
My neighbor had one of those once (brand name not important)... he wasn't exactly careful about the way he installed it and it was arcing over at several locations...sounded like typical "power line
Don't paint it if it's galvanized!!! Use a professional-grade galvanizing spray or brush-on. Properly applied, it works very well and lasts a long time. It's not cheap, but you won't have to re-do th
Hi Gents, I'm planning to erect a new 68' self-supporting BX tower and I'm going over Rhon's specifications for the concrete foundation. (I have NO desire to deviate from those specs.) A few question
To suggest a method....could a sponge be saturated with the stuff and then rub/squeeze it on? _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk
Rick, I have a large "conduit" running 200' to one of my towers. So, speaking from experience, there is no easy way to keep water out unless you want to pressurize the conduit with say, dry nitrogen
Gregg, Well, it's a slow and messy process, but since you have access to each side of the drive and some depth, you can "drill" a hole with some PVC pipe and leave the pipe in place for use as a cond
Hi Gents, Also, I should bond the AC protective grounding lead to the tower ground, right? 73 and thanks, Charlie, N0TT _______________________________________________ _______________________________
OK, thanks Mickey! That 12" minimum above grade for the bottom of the box is reasonable and adequate for my needs. I agree on the single point grounding/bonding. 73, Charlie, N0TT NEC requires a mini
Hi Tony, It would be best to go thru to your attic. Spread the load with the 2x6 fastened over several studs...I think you were going to do that. More.... The brick, probably just a "brick veneer" (l
Hurricanes! I would feel more comfortable with some torque bars and guy wires on the tower, guying at a minimum of 60-degrees. Charlie _______________________________________________ ________________
Roger, The traps on my Hy-gain antennas are "sorta molded"... they use a threaded plastic form for the coil, then the outer metal sleeve becomes the "capacitor" which is connected to one end of the c
Brian, You didn't say what tower you are going to put up, but the BEST thing is to follow the manufacture's recommendations regarding breaking strength/working load and placement of the guys....no ma
geo, Brian didn't specify the BRAND or other mechanical specs except height. Climbing a "skinny" tower of the 130' height can be a lot of "fun"....best to have some solid support there for, say, a ~2
Some good info offered by others, but I would add that If you have a reasonable choice, you might want to avoid guying to the roof. Sooner or later, if your roof uses say, asphalt shingles, it will n
Hi John, FWIW, I've buried "ordinary" rotator cable directly in the ground over 30 years ago and have never had a problem with it. Heh...heh...maybe I've just been lucky. 73, Charlie, N0TT __________
Use whatever the specs call for....no need to over-engineer. BTW, I just poured only 5 yards of 4000 psi today. I took the advice of several posts on this reflector and rented a CONCRETE VIBRATOR. It
I had a need for that. The center of the Vee was supported by the crank-up tower. I installed two 47' push-up masts, one on each side of the tower. Then I used a pully and rope with a weight on each
Hi Gents, The bolts at the base of my new Rohn BX tower are 9/16" diameter. I'm using #4 copper grounding wire, one on each leg. What connector do you guys recommend for the wire-to-tower legs? Or do
I use a trucker's knot....could be the same as the tautline hitch....allows tightning and adjusting of the guy rope. No need for turnbuckles and the like. I also use a rope thimble on the earth ancho