Gents/Ladies, Just a suggestion if running a 1-1000A and the bright red plate bothers you as it does me. I know, many think that this tube should always run with a plate red because its built for it.
Since the 4X1 ran with some color 24/7 in an AM and FM BC rigs I wouldnt loose sleep over it in less severe intermittent ham use including RTTY. Adequate cooling is more important. Id start by calcul
On HF a 4-1000A should run a good 1.5kW , even more, continuously. Red glowing plate is normal. In fact when in idle with 5500 V on plate in GG they glow brighter than when driven to 1.5kW output. Un
Isn't that nice red comforting if you want to keep the tube "gettered" and gas out of it? I think the gettering agent is on the outside of the plate and can only pick up some gases when glowing. Ther
If running a tube (or any component) within its design rating is emotionally distressing, that's a psychological problem, not technical! Al AB2ZY Isn't that nice red comforting if you want to keep th
If the tube has enough emission to run it, a 1000 watt plate dissipation at 60% efficiency should be capable of 1.67KW out without exceeding the plate dissipation. As Carl said, cooling is important
Isn't the "real" plate dissipation much, much higher than 1kw? Even the 3x3 is 3x4. I have always been told that you can treat it like a 4k dissipation tube. If the tube has enough emission to run it
I agree entirely. Use it as it was designed. My car is designed to do 250km/h on the autobahn so I feel the need to regularly do that kind of thing when I'm working over in DL. It does the car the wo
The Pd was specified at 24/7 commercial AM/FM service. Obviously ham SSB/CW doesnt even come close nor does ham RTTY/digi unless its also 24/7 Carl KM1H ______________________________________________
An as already mentioned always running dark is a good way to destroy the tube from outgassing. The anode is coated with zirconium and is the getter and it has to be red to activate. Carl KM1H _______