I find this stuff very easy to work with - easier than mil standard RG213/U, actually. There shouldn't be any "small part between the center conductor and the braid," although I know what you mean. I
This is good advice and just about the way I do it, although I have never tried to do 30 an hour. All I can add is that you need a decent sized iron and it does need to be hot so you can do the work
I use a 1.5" tubing cutter. 73, Keith NM5G This is good advice and just about the way I do it, although I have never tried to do 30 an hour. All I can add is that you need a decent sized iron and it
Thanks Steve...thats actually so simple. I don't know why I never heard of it before...I've always stripped only the jacket first and then have that mess when the braid unravels while trying to cut t
Two additional H&Ks: 1. Unless the plug is silver plated, it often helps to clear the plating out of the solder holes, so you're soldering to bare brass. 2. If you pre-heat the plug body with a hot-a
The whole idea of using a large iron to solder the plug with is to get the job done quickly with enough localized heat so you don't spread so much heat to the coax. By preheating the plug you have de
Some coax is just bad news when applying heat. Same for some PL259 designs using plastic dielectric. IMO these should always be crimped, not soldered. Use Teflon connectors and high quality coax in a
Actually it doesn't work out that way. You're still heating the plug body fast enough to avoid softening the cable inside. What it does guarantee is a good solder joint to the plug body, down through
Hello Gary Actually it doesn't work out that way. You're still heating the plug body fast enough to avoid softening the cable inside. What it does guarantee is a good solder joint to the plug body, d
What does the soldering of the braid to the connector do? Larry K1ZW Durham, NC _______________________________________________ See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless