I'm installing a base foundation for a US Towers HDX-555. The base will be 5' X 5' X 7.25' per specs. The rebar will be per specs. Concrete will be 4000psi in 28 days. The soil is moist, very firm, a
Marsh The answer to your question is neither ! No need to relocate the drain, but don't pour concrete directly around it either. What you should do is surround the exposed pipe with a firm but compre
Move the pipe. If it were to ever leak you would have a leaning tower. _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list TowerTalk
Wrong. No way water that isn't under pressure (it's a passive drain pipe) is going to make the soil around his foundation any wetter than it would normally get being only 1.5 feet below the surface.
Everyone has an opinion but you have neglected to provide some important info. Drain pipe: perforated? solid? sewage, water like from downspouts or what? Solid drain pipe with serviceable "fall" that
Not wrong :). I have a bit of experience in the matter. I have seen structures fail from a leaky unpressurized sewer pipe that was fine when they built it. The top 1.5 feet will provide so little lat
Thanks for your reply. The rain pipe is solid white PVC schedule 40, not perforated. It carries rainwater runoff, not sewerage. I have decided to wrap the pipe with 2 layers of rubber pipe-insulating
I agree with a previous post: make certain that the 'rain pipe' has a bit of space to expand/contract. Layers of tape won't do it! 73 Don N8DE Thanks for your reply. The rain pipe is solid white PVC
Marsh, Since you are doing everything per spec, what does the tower manufacturer say you should do? And what does your town building inspector say you should do? IMHO, as long as they both approve of
You need more room for movement. It would only take a little initial settling to crack the pvc. Don't rely on just some tape or thin foam. You don't want to live to regret not giving a little wiggle
It might have been prudent to re position the base after the discovery of the drain pipe. That not being practical now, I would pour the base over the drain pipe and then after the concrete cure, ex
Partick, That's the smartest thing you could have done. Not necessarily just for the water problem, but because you'll have no problems running any new cables later on. Number those drip tubes. Witho
Author: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 18:00:24 -0500
On 1/15/2014 8:24 AM, Brian Amos wrote: Not wrong :). I have a bit of experience in the matter. I have seen structures fail from a leaky unpressurized sewer pipe that was fine when they built it. The
Author: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 18:03:04 -0500
The rain pipe is solid white PVC schedule 40, not perforated. It carries rainwater runoff, not sewerage. I have decided to wrap the pipe with 2 layers of rubber pipe-insulating tape and then overwrap
Thanks to all who replied. In the end I decided to reroute the drain pipe around the foundation. Probably it would have been okay just to "cushion" the pipe to allow for some movement, but for the re
"I come across this situation all the time. Anytime someone wants to build an addition or where there used to be a structure I tell them specifically to move or remove any utility that is within the
Im saying an old utility needs to be moved or abandoned. The new wet utilities should come in under the foundation with a minimum clearance and a reinforced footing that will easily span the less tha
Author: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 02:08:49 -0500
Your saying you can't run utilities into a foundation? No one has water and sewer??? I have water and sewer, but they come in through the basement wall. Those built on a slab most likely come in unde