I've seen descriptions and pictures of installations where lightning arrestors were installed in a weather proof box at the tower base and others where they are at the house entrance. Which is better
At the house, assuming you have an adequate ground system there. 73 Gary K4FMX _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing list T
They say closer to the tower is better, but many do both. I have mine at the base of the tower only. 73' Bill N1HWC _______________________________________________ ___________________________________
My preference is to ground the coax shields at the base of the tower (actually I do it at the top and bottom), then use the arrestors at the grounded bulkhead where the coax comes in the house. Roger
Glenn: I installed my Polyphasers at the bottom of my tower in a steel box because I also have a coax switch in there. If I had installed the Poly's at the shack, I would have left the switch inputs
arrestors were installed in a weather proof box at the tower base and others where they are at the house entrance. Which is better? Well, the whole idea is to keep the transients out of the house so
Author: Larry DiGioia N8KU <towertalk@longwire.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 20:33:15 -0500
Could someone please explain how you can ground a coax shield, on a continuous run down a tower, without letting moisture and humidity get into it? Thanks! Larry N8KU -- Larry N8KU l o n g w i r e .
Follow the link below to a picture of a grounding point. Weatherproofing ( a topic unto itself ) by the normal methods will keep the moisture out. http://www.w4nja.org/100_0490.jpg Clint - W5CPT Coul
Here's another way: http://www.iceradioproducts.com/rfcoaxial.html# Barry W2UP -- Barry Kutner, W2UP Newtown, PA _______________________________________________ ______________________________________
Here is a link to one product, there are others that are very similar: http://www.andrew.com/products/trans_line/heliax/sureground.aspx Essentially there is a copper clamp designed for the specific
I used http://www.polyphaser.com/productdetail.aspx?item=UNI-KIT-2TT but that does not show it installed. Polyphaser makes a series of these, different ones depending on the metals at each end. I bou
continuous run down a tower, without letting moisture and humidity get into it? Thanks! Commercial ground kits include a bunch of butyl rubber vapor wrap and 2" wide electrical tape. It's pretty easy
I'd call that an understatement<:-)) However with a bit of ingenuity and using the appropriate size of copper pipe or tubing it's not all that difficult to make some good looking ones that work well.
the same or *slightly* larger than the diameter of the coax with the jacket removed. Split the copper tube or pipe lengthwise (IOW saw it into two mating pieces). Solder/Braze the ground wire *length
Exothermic is used and accepted because it works so well (easy to use and repeatable results with little skill required) in welding copper cable to steel ground rods. Copper to copper is a whole diff
Follow link below for pictures of my grounding installation, showing coax bonds at top and bottom - homemade. http://picasaweb.google.com/kc2tnpix/HamRadioTowerGroundingCoaxAndTower Joe - KC2TN Could
Larry: I came up with a way to homebrew a coax ground clamp for the RG-213 coax runs down my tower: http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-07/msg00698.html . The trick is to really
The commercial stations where I have worked have the towers protected at each tower to the ground system. The transmitters are also grounded to the ground system. Surge protectors are on the power at
If using braided cable, such as LMR400 size, Times Microwave does make a grounding kit for RG8 braided size cable. Not exactly cheap, but what is your time worth? http://www.tessco.com/products/heade
I agree with Steve. The priority is protecting the house. With arrestors at the tower only, a surge could be induced in the portion of the cables leading from the tower to the house, and there would