Just getting ready to install some a new beam and coax plus N style male connectors on a new tower. It's been awhile since I last used one (N style) and have reviewed via the WEB and the ARRL handboo
Ron, the clamping ring for N connectors is nickel plated. You will turn the coax to charcoal before successfully soldering the shield to it. One of the major failure modes with N connectors is having
I just pour 'em full of epoxy Then put the heat shrink on. Never had one come off yet. 73 Roger (K8RI) _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________
One "trick" to properly installing an N connector is that you have to separate all of the strands around the ring. You can not have any that overlap each other at the point where they get clamped. It
Back in the day, we were taught to use a short (1/2") bristle, brass brush - like a flux brush - to "comb" the braid out over the clamp ring, and then we used small scissors to trim the braid to fina
Thanks to all that replied, I remember that I never had soldered the shield and thought that was the correct method. I will also as many have suggested use some heat shrink for stability as well as h
Hi Ron, the heat shrink alone is not water tight. Your plan to use the fusing tape is the very best way to seal the connectors. The fusing tape of coarse needs uv protection and even cheap vinyl tape
As someone who's actually set up assembly lines to install Type N military connectors for USAF contracts (20+ years ago!), I might add one of the biggest problems hams have is misapplication of conne
Steve, your info is very timely as I encountered that very problem today while building a 70cm 2 way power divider with RG213/u. Do you have a solution for the loose fitting nut? 73, Gerald K5GW In a
Sure, use the right connector! :-P There are dozens of different model type N connectors. I avoid the RFX ones for the reason sited and also because the braid clamp is "shiny" and slippery and allows
I slide a piece of MMM flooded (lined with hot melt glue) heat shrink over the entire connection. That has been the best and easiest water proof connection I've found. It'll fill threads, voids, and
I'm pretty sure those are the ones that turn a rough, dusty, bluish green around here. Nickel plate is terrible and silver just disappears. That's the main reason I never worry about turning connecto
K8RI: I'm pretty sure those are the ones that turn a rough, dusty, bluish green around here. Nickel plate is terrible and silver just disappears. That's the main reason I never worry about turning co
I don't worry about them while they're "up there", but normally these refuse to come apart with the nut becoming a permanent part of the body on the shiny ones. All of the silver plated ones, at leas
I hear that some boaters use heatshrink tubing that has a sealer glue inside it that keeps water out. -- Original Message -- From: <TexasRF@aol.com> To: <w4lde@numail.org>; <towertalk@contesting.com>
Well, you've certainly had some experiences there with wild WX! I've never seen the silver plating actually come off a good N connector, but then I've also never taken any direct lightning hits, eith
Tis what I use: http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm 73 Roger (K8RI) _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ TowerTalk mailing
Actually these I'm describing didn't go bad. They'd have passed all those tests. They just wouldn't come apart. As to the silver plating, all I can do is guess, and that's one of the few things I don
I realize that there are many out there who are more "pure" than I and insist on Type N even for HF. Perhaps I have just been lucky, but I have had good luck just using good quality UHF connectors wi
Isn't that why there's little funky rubber/silicone grommet looking things in some installation kits. I always figured they're to make the cable "thicker" so it fits the connector. __________________